RAIN and chemical drying agents.

maxryde · Post by **maxryde** » March 3rd, 2004, 5:03 pm

Okay so the weatherman says RAIN,RAIN,RAIN, and more RAIN so I got to thinking about all the trouble I have been having removing moisture from breaks and so I would like feedback on the subject of chemical drying agents. I am still very new to the WSR GIG and when I trained with Delta their take was to use a moister evaporater. No chemicals!!!! I know there are mixed feelings on this issue and would like to hear oppinions pro and con.
Thanks Scott :~)

"Wisdom is not a product of schooling but a lifelong attempt to achieve it"
Albert Einstein

Post by **Delta Kits** » March 3rd, 2004, 5:07 pm

Most of the "chemical drying" agents out there are some mixture of alcohol.

Alcohol melts laminate. This is not something that people want to be introducing into the windshields of their customers.

If people have been trained to use that, and don't want to take my word for it, get a piece of laminate and do your own experiment.

Dave M · Post by **Dave M** » March 3rd, 2004, 5:22 pm

Prior to being in the w/s repair business I worked as a glazier with a full service glass company. Maybe some of you have also. I used to cut laminated glass (safety glass) for whatever reason. After scoring and running both sides of the glass what do you suppose was used to help free the plastic innerlay? Alcohol was poured over the break to weaken the plastic in order to get a clean break. Alcohol would soften the plastic between both layers of glass.

desertstars · Post by **desertstars** » March 3rd, 2004, 8:24 pm

Good one, Delta.

Point well made.

Dave M.

I know laminated glass is not easy to recycle.

Do you know of any economically feasible way to recycle the laminated glass that is crushed and then "land-filled"?

GlasWeldTech · Post by **GlasWeldTech** » March 3rd, 2004, 8:34 pm

We use the dry star. Also we will take an empty injector (NO RESIN) and pull a good vacuum for around 5 minutes and then remove it and proceed with some resin. If it has been raining and we have a choice we allow a couple of days for it to dry out.

screenman · Post by **screenman** » March 4th, 2004, 10:51 am

well done Glassweld tech pulling a vacuum lowers the boiling piont of water. the more vacuum the lower the boiling point.

Dave M · Post by **Dave M** » March 4th, 2004, 1:43 pm

Desertstars,
Were you directing a question to me?

maxryde · Post by **maxryde** » March 4th, 2004, 1:56 pm

Thanks screenman/GWT
Okay so if I get the jest your saying use the moisture evaporater coupled with pulling vacuum. ? Same time or one following the other. The reason I asked the original ? is that even following a few cycles of using the moisture evaporater alone I found trouble getting the water out of a couple of breaks......

Any other thoughts.

screenman · Post by **screenman** » March 4th, 2004, 2:25 pm

i have never seen or used the drystar I use a small blow torch and warm the screen quite hot. Takes a bit of practise but you will be surprised how hot you can get it without cracking i tend to keep this to an area of about 1 inch around the crack I then apply the maximum vacuum I can and allow to completely cool I might have to do this 4 or 5 times as you know we get a lot of rain in the UK.
For the vacuum I use a mityvac with an adaptor made to fit over the chip.

One of the major problems I have found with chips not filling is due to moisture still being in the legs etc. People often confuse moisture in the legs as air.

Keep on asking those questions.

Repair1 · Post by **Repair1** » March 4th, 2004, 8:43 pm

Screenman,
I agree with you thats how I dry them as well if I have to. However I like to let the sun dry them for me couple hours in the direct sun does wonders.

Happy Repairing

Brian

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