Let's here your plan for this damage!

Post your windshield repair tips, questions, advice! Note there is a sub-forum specifically for business development questions.
impala-renegade
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Let's here your plan for this damage!

Post by impala-renegade » August 7th, 2014, 11:12 pm

Describe the steps you would plan to take with this damage. It is really interesting. The legs of the star are quite tight. Also, the damage is in the black area if that changes your approach.

Image

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Re: Let's here your plan for this damage!

Post by HBCC » August 8th, 2014, 7:50 am

Being extremely new to windshield repair I would explain to the customer that the repair is for structural purposes and being in the tinted area the aesthetics of the repair will not greatly improve the look but will prevent the damage from spreading and causing an expensive windshield replacement and ask if they wished me to continue.
I would always repair the lowest damage on the windscreen first to prevent resin leaking from the top repair into the bottom when removing the bridge for the second repair and curing prematurely preventing a proper repair of the upper most damage. I would not cure the bullseye at this stage. (I actually had an almost identical repair today except the star was above the bullseye about half a centimetre and I cured the bottom bullseye first and cured and scraped before completing the second star above. Due to the entry points being so close the second cured pit resin cured over the top of the bottom cured pit resin and I accidentally poked it with the corner of my blade and damaged the bottom pit oh so slightly.
Once the bottom bullseye was filled I would start on the star on the left. I can't tell if the star has only 1 impact point or not in this picture but believe there should be at least 1 and would drill a hole into the impact point of the star to make sure I could get resin into as many legs as possible.
Once filling the star and using gentle flexing with my thumb if needed to fill the legs I would cap the pits, cure the resin and scrape. If I could not get all of the legs to fill I would drill the legs that needed resin and fill,cap,scrape and polish all of the filled pits.
During the process (especially if I had to drill and if the customer was around I would explain that this is a quite difficult repair and why I needed to drill and what he can expect from a drill hole) ( If the customer is leaving while I do the repair I would explain what may happen and ask if they would like me to proceed)

Now that I have explained my newbie point of view, please wait for an expert to reply as I would also like to know if what I suggested is the correct procedure myself.

I would also like to know if there are 2 obvious impact points and 2 actual repairs being made even if they are quite close if I should charge as a single repair or a double repair ?

Any other information would be appreciated also.

thanks
Paul.

Edit: One other thing, here in Queensland, Australia we do not have ROLAGS and after reading the governments documentation regarding windscreen repair, the repaired portion of windscreen is the sole responsibility of the driver whether it is safe or not but I do recommend a replacement if the repair is a chip which is in the drivers primary viewing area or the windscreen is cracked to an edge.

Source: http://service8.com.au/pdf_docs/qld_win ... worthy.pdf


Especially this part:

The Australian Standard AS 2366-1990 (Repair of Laminated Glass Windscreens Fitted to
Road Vehicles) is a voluntary code of practice for the repair of automotive windscreens that
gives recommended practices regarding the repair of laminated windscreens. The use of the
Australian Standard is not mandatory.

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Re: Let's here your plan for this damage!

Post by Clarity Glass » August 8th, 2014, 8:38 am

First i'll assume all damage is on outer layer. Second the black area gets hotter than rest of w/s so I would put in shaded area. Next would drill and pop both impact areas with slide hammer. Apply injector to star break and set uv cover. Work star until filled. Resin will begin to fill second break also so cover second chip with black electrical tape then cure star. After star is cured, remove tape and apply injector to second break. Fill and cure as if a solo chip. This is more work so I charge additional chip price.

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Re: Let's here your plan for this damage!

Post by EMCAutoGlass » August 8th, 2014, 2:03 pm

I don't recommend tapping a bull's-eye that close to the edge. Even the smallest chips at the edge can cause an edge crack. I had a chip similar to this one along the black area on the edge (a star without the secondary bulls), and it wouldn't fill even after drilling. So, I tried tapping a bull's-eye and a crack shot out about 10 inches immediately. Just a word of caution when working along the edge. This area wants to crack, so use extra caution.
Thanks,
Marty
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Re: Let's here your plan for this damage!

Post by HBCC » August 8th, 2014, 5:35 pm

Clarity Glass wrote: Next would drill and pop both impact areas with slide hammer.
How safe is this to do to any star break ?
Have you had a windscreen crack out popping a bullseye on the actual damage itself ?
Do you drill to the full depth of the deltakits spring hammer depth guage before popping the bullseye ?
Breaking a customers windscreen scares the crap out of me even though I explain the possibility each and every time and have yet to do so.

Thanks
Paul.

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Re: Let's here your plan for this damage!

Post by impala-renegade » August 8th, 2014, 9:03 pm

I had a customer once tell me that the last shop they went to passed on their repair, simply because it was so LOW on the windshield. They made it sound like it was harder to fill them down there on the bottom edge, much more so than the sides? Sounded weird to me.

The only reason I bring it up is that this damage actually didn't want to fill at all. I think I tried to fill the star first.. Legs were super fine.

To answer the question of popping the actual damage, I do that all the time.. I have customers tapping their foot with me a lot. Anyway I find it pretty safe!! Safer than popping the end of cracks. I don't have the depth gauge.
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Re: Let's here your plan for this damage!

Post by Roo » August 8th, 2014, 10:32 pm

I would cap both breaks with pit resin, cure them out, level with razor blade, drill star break first and see if I could fill both chips with one injector. If that doesn't fill both chips, cure the star break, then drill back into bullseye and fill it. I would bet the bullseye fills from the star break though.

I have done two breaks connected many times and whenever I didn't cap and drill I regretted it. So now it's standard procedure for me.

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Re: Let's here your plan for this damage!

Post by screenman » August 8th, 2014, 10:50 pm

On the main starbreak you will see a star behind a star, this is in the inner layer of glass by the looks of it, there is an easy test which I am sure you all know. If this is the case then I am off down the road for another job and leaving this one alone.

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Re: Let's here your plan for this damage!

Post by Glasseye » August 9th, 2014, 1:52 am

A couple of points to be wary of when repairing damage in this area of the glass
1) If the glass is in direct sunlight, you can feel the difference in surface temperature between the obscure area and the clear area. This will increase glass stress along the line where the glass changes from obscure to clear i.e. where the dots are, to reduce the risk of breakout, place the car undercover or in shade and don't start on the repair until the surface temperatures of the two areas are the same.

2) The polyurethane bead of sealant, bonding the glass to the body, will be somewhere under the obscured area so avoid applying too much pressure as the bead may act as a lever point causing a breakout.

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Re: Let's here your plan for this damage!

Post by Clarity Glass » August 9th, 2014, 8:25 am

HBCC I've never cracked a chip out by using slide hammer on original break. That being said there are additional stresses from heat and manufacturing on edge of w/s so proceed with caution. The only chips I've had grow with slide hammer are from drilling tips. I've had 17 w/s crack out in 11 years...it happens.
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