Pit polish

Post your windshield repair tips, questions, advice! Note there is a sub-forum specifically for business development questions.
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maxryde
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Joined: December 3rd, 2003, 1:00 pm
Enter the middle number please (3): 5
Location: Panama City Beach, Florida

stickers

Post by maxryde »

So I did a large combo the other day and it was a bear, (large, ugly, interesting!!) He also had a crack that was S shaped which was different, I got pics and will try to post. The guy has a septic outfit and didn't want to replace the WS. (I recomended replacement, he insisted on repair :shock: ) I'm still fairly new and like a good challenge so I agreed to do what I could. The thing took me 2 1/2 hours and looked decent given the damage. The combo's pit was the size of a dime and the bull the size of a golf ball with a crack forming off one side kinda like this @. The repair would have looked a great deal better if the pit resin could be polished better. Any Ideas? Thanks Scott:~)


Click on the link to view pics of Setup, bullseye before, bullseye after

http://www.villagephotos.com/pubgallery.asp?id_=685640
My best mentor one said " be fair with your priceing but never too low, be honest with your customer/competition, when the day is done be sure you have done "good works", and always leave something of value on the barganing table!!

While my friend and trainer/ mentor Ray has moved on, his words live.
gold star wsr
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Posts: 286
Joined: August 12th, 2003, 12:00 pm

Pit polish

Post by gold star wsr »

I use fingernail polishing creme and a Revlon nail buffer to polish the pits.

for the buffing creme, I go to Sally Beauty Supply. They have a website where you find the store nearest you, or you can order on line. They have the buffing creme, but they dont carry the Revlon buffer, and the one they do carry is. quite frankly, a piece of garbage. The Revlon nail buffer is available at Wally-World (Walmart) and most drug stores.

It only takes a couple of gentle strokes, usually, to bring the pit up to a clear, glossy finish.
Repair1

pit polish

Post by Repair1 »

Couple things come to mind :-k number one being a good quality pit filler seems that some of the cheap stuff doesn
DaveC

Post by DaveC »

Hey gold star,

Nifty idea with the nail buffer.

It sure beats having to break out that tattered pair of boxer shorts that I normally use :oops:
gold star wsr
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Posts: 286
Joined: August 12th, 2003, 12:00 pm

Post by gold star wsr »

thanks Dave.

Actually, using the nail buffer is not very different from what repair1 does. It is covered with a piece of soft chamois, and with use, it becomes smooth and shiny, as the buffing creme builds up. It's an actual tool, so for me, that is easier to keep track of. I prefer nail buffing creme to pit polish because of its fine grain, and no harmful chemicals (the glass might not know the difference, but my hands do). A tiny dab is all it takes. I also have a felt buffing wheel on a mini-dremel, which I used to use with the buffing creme, but really, I dont think it works any better than the manual method. Whatever you use, easy does it. When I first started buffing pits, I thought I had to rub hard and long... the opposite is actually true.
glassdoctor
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Joined: November 13th, 2003, 9:24 am

Need Windshield Replaced!! Need help

Post by glassdoctor »

Yes, take your time when scraping. Rush it too much and it can ruin the finish... and make it harder to polish clear.

more tips...

Once the pit is scraped and flush... flat surface, not concave... good.

Then do it one more time... a thin application of pit resin and sure it good. Then you have a nice thin layer to scrape. Use a fresh razor blade. This will give very good consistent results, and you have a good finished pit to polish.

If the pit was finished well, almost any polish methods will give good results. I have used many different polishes that can give a crystal clear finish... and I recomend the cotton polish wheels. It's easier and quicker than hand rubbing for me. Having another dremel in my bag is no big deal for me, and you can always "borrow" the polisher's battery if your drill is going dead. :wink: poor polisher :cry:
dgarza
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Enter the middle number please (3): 5
Location: oklahoma

drill bits, etc.

Post by dgarza »

gold start,
When your buffing by hand how long do you do it and what motion? (circular or up and down)
desertstars

drilling

Post by desertstars »

Scott.

I love it.

You accomplished what at my stage of this game I wouldn't touch with either a ten foot vaccinated crowbar or a plugged toilet with less than a plunger and a pair of rubber gloves.

Oh, yeah. I've fixed them kinds in the past.

I won't bother to ask you what you got paid for that job.

That's of least importance.

You did it.

You saved that windshield.

If I had trained you, I'd be one proud guy.
gold star wsr
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Posts: 286
Joined: August 12th, 2003, 12:00 pm

golf ball damage

Post by gold star wsr »

dgarza,

Usually, it only takes about ten light strokes back and forth.
maxryde
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Posts: 476
Joined: December 3rd, 2003, 1:00 pm
Enter the middle number please (3): 5
Location: Panama City Beach, Florida

Post by maxryde »

If I had trained you, I'd be one proud guy.
High priase desertstars, thank you :) I kinda wish the pits would have polished up better they were huge. When I visit the outfit I'll probably apply some of the info I gleaned here to improve the appearence if possible!! I got some more pics today on some vinyl repair I'll try to post them on the same page later this week for anyone who might be interested!! :D
I won't bother to ask you what you got paid for that job.
I was at that job for 2.5 hours drilled mabey 8 holes. That was a challenge
the $ wasn't the point it's the challenge. (Any fool can make money :D) Just kidding guys, Scott:~)
And thanks to gold star wsr,Repair1 and glassdoctor for the input I follow up with the results on a later post!!!
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