repair rule #1
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- Senior Member
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- Joined: November 13th, 2003, 9:24 am
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Regarding the large and wet star break near the edge of the w/s......wait 1-2 days for the sun to dry it out? That would be the safe method.
I would use heat...if used correctly heat can be a very effective method of evaporation. If used incorrectly, you'll have a cracked w/s.
Heating has been discussed very thoroughly in past posts and I would suggest any new members to search the archives.
I would use heat...if used correctly heat can be a very effective method of evaporation. If used incorrectly, you'll have a cracked w/s.
Heating has been discussed very thoroughly in past posts and I would suggest any new members to search the archives.
This has really turned into an inferno, it amazes me that there are 2 schools of thought on wsr repair and everyone gets through the day and makes a living. As a rookie in this sometimes it's tough to figure out how to properly fix a windshield.
Keeps it interesting though, I sit in front of my of my practice glass and ask it what it wants me to do. If it ever gives me an answer I will run out of the garage screaming, go to the nearest pay phone and call Delta for tech support/counciling/xanax/ridlin/prozac..............
Keeps it interesting though, I sit in front of my of my practice glass and ask it what it wants me to do. If it ever gives me an answer I will run out of the garage screaming, go to the nearest pay phone and call Delta for tech support/counciling/xanax/ridlin/prozac..............
training
I looked over each of your statements, Glassdoctor.
Didn't find even one I could take issue with.
As to whether a break reaches the laminate IN MOST CASES that question remains and has absolutely nothing to do with scribing and snapping a piece of laminated windshield.
The fact remains that the two pieces of windshield are more complex than the simple ham sandwich analogy I use with the public.
Taking one piece of that windshield and ignoring laminate reveals hard glass on either side and a powder-like interior between the two.
Just because a stone penetrated the hard exterior of the road side does NOT mean that the damage penetrated completely through the other hard exterior on the otherside and exposed the laminate.
And, if that is the case, one can inject ANY cleaner other than a glass eating acid without affecting the laminate simply because the laminate isn't exposed in the first place.
Isn't exposed in the first place bears repeating.
Which then raises a question in my mind.
If something like denatured alcohol has such a debilitating effect on exposed laminate, what degree of destruction will an acid-based resin manage to accomplish on the laminate?
Or any resin for that manner?
ASSUMING the laminate is EXPOSED in the first place?
An assumption I'm not yet willing to assume.
Didn't find even one I could take issue with.
As to whether a break reaches the laminate IN MOST CASES that question remains and has absolutely nothing to do with scribing and snapping a piece of laminated windshield.
The fact remains that the two pieces of windshield are more complex than the simple ham sandwich analogy I use with the public.
Taking one piece of that windshield and ignoring laminate reveals hard glass on either side and a powder-like interior between the two.
Just because a stone penetrated the hard exterior of the road side does NOT mean that the damage penetrated completely through the other hard exterior on the otherside and exposed the laminate.
And, if that is the case, one can inject ANY cleaner other than a glass eating acid without affecting the laminate simply because the laminate isn't exposed in the first place.
Isn't exposed in the first place bears repeating.
Which then raises a question in my mind.
If something like denatured alcohol has such a debilitating effect on exposed laminate, what degree of destruction will an acid-based resin manage to accomplish on the laminate?
Or any resin for that manner?
ASSUMING the laminate is EXPOSED in the first place?
An assumption I'm not yet willing to assume.
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Well, we are on the same side of alcoholism, desertstars so I don't want to disagree with you or anything.
I would say almost all breaks do "touch" the laminate, simply based on the fact that almost all breaks can be daisied, which is a direct result of resin bleeding into/between the laminate. Every bullseye, combo, and starburst can and will bleed i fyou cook it too long, too hot, etc....
The only breaks I would expect not to extend deep enough to contact the laminate is those very short, tight stars... they are usually like 1/2" long at most.
That's why I said if it can daisy, it has to touch the pvb.
Whether that's considered "exposed" is another matter, as is the question of how damaging a few seconds (or minutes?) of exposure to alcohol is to the sliver of pvb at the base of a rock chip.
Jeff, are you sure you put the alcohol in the break and not in your tummy? [-X

I would say almost all breaks do "touch" the laminate, simply based on the fact that almost all breaks can be daisied, which is a direct result of resin bleeding into/between the laminate. Every bullseye, combo, and starburst can and will bleed i fyou cook it too long, too hot, etc....
The only breaks I would expect not to extend deep enough to contact the laminate is those very short, tight stars... they are usually like 1/2" long at most.
That's why I said if it can daisy, it has to touch the pvb.
Whether that's considered "exposed" is another matter, as is the question of how damaging a few seconds (or minutes?) of exposure to alcohol is to the sliver of pvb at the base of a rock chip.
I have NEVER seen this happen. If I did, I surely would not do it a second time.give the repair a milky look when the resin then mixes with the melted laminate.
Jeff, are you sure you put the alcohol in the break and not in your tummy? [-X
Lots of references to bullseyes here. There is no disagreement from me that the question of laminate exposure when dealing with bullseyes is a definite consideration. And, I suggested in my post that caution gained from experience should be used in some cases.
OK. I will concede that inexperienced techs should stay away from alcohol until they have some experience under their belt.
Better yet, take a belt of alcohol rather than wasting it.
Lots of references to moisture also. No mention whatsoever of wax, road oil, RainX etc. Heat isn't going to clean that gunk out of the repair area.
OK. I will concede that inexperienced techs should stay away from alcohol until they have some experience under their belt.
Better yet, take a belt of alcohol rather than wasting it.
Lots of references to moisture also. No mention whatsoever of wax, road oil, RainX etc. Heat isn't going to clean that gunk out of the repair area.
Hey Desertstars, I really like this informative way to post, I think if you would number all your advice this way alot of people could print it out and it would become a repair manual of sorts. You bring excellent repair info to this forum and then you provoke the other side of the coin so to speak.
Hey guys,
I don't know about ya'll, but when I was a wee lad and would go swimming I would always get water in my ears, and it drove me crazy.
So, me Mom used to put a cap full of rubbing alchohol in my ears for 5 seconds and when I turned my head over the water would come gushing out. Worked like a charm. What this has to do with WSR, I have no idea.
I don't know about ya'll, but when I was a wee lad and would go swimming I would always get water in my ears, and it drove me crazy.
So, me Mom used to put a cap full of rubbing alchohol in my ears for 5 seconds and when I turned my head over the water would come gushing out. Worked like a charm. What this has to do with WSR, I have no idea.

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