How do YOU repair a bullseye

[magicogar]

My question is how do each one of you do a repair on a bullseye?

I've tried curing it under pressure and it gave me a halo.
I also tried heat and it gave me a halo. Both of this I tried and the repair looked great except for this daisy halo effect.

When I don't use heat or curing it under pressure, there's no daisy halo effect but the bullseye didn't completely filled.

Sorry, I know this topic's been covered before but right now I want to gather all the tips from each one of you in one post instead of it scattered all around the forum.

Thanks!!!

[maxryde]

Mabey you need to slow down a bit ? Run a couple of cycles pressure and vacuum. Are you in a hot climate? Do you cool the WS before you inject? It could be the WS is to hot when you are curing and the air in the break is not noticed untill it is cooler. We have a lot of cool weather here. Good and bad things about both (to hot or cool). Good luck, Scott :~)

[Delta Kits]

Magicogar,

Can you describe the halo that you see?

[magicogar]

I forgot to mentioned that this is a practice glass I'm using. I did tried pressure and vacuum btw. Somebody said to slide the bridge over and apply pressure to the inside of the bullseye. If that didn't work, then slide the bridge back over and apply pressure to the bullseye again through the injector. I haven't tried that yet but will tonite.

[magicogar]

Jeff,

It looks like a daisy...light milky daisy surrounding the edges of the bullseye. It seems like I put too much pressure or something. There was one bullseye that has no daisy effect but still has this white milky effect surround the edge of the bullseye.

[Repair1]

A white milky look is water in your break. #-o

Happy repairing

Brian

[glassdoctor]

Yeah, the "milky white" thing should not happen no matter what you do with pressure, etc... unless you really overheat it?

Water will give you a cloudy, white look... but you said it's practice glass. I doubt you are washing it before you repair? Practicing out in the rain?

As for the halo or daisy... in general, bullseyes will always have a halo of sorts. The break has an edge and you will see this in the form of a clear ring. Best case scenario is that this halo ring is very subtle, even hard to find. But it's always there. Older dirtier bullseye require more time, etc to cet fill so they generally end up with a more pronounced halo. The hotter the glass, the more likely it will be worse also.

Bullseyes usually clear up 95% of the black very quickly... it's the last little spots of black (air) that require a bit of work or patience. As suggested, try either slowing down, using a couple vacuum and brief pressure cycles... or working on cooler glass. But again if it's practice glass, I doubt it's hot...

Is this an old windshield, like 20 yrs old? That could be a problem as well. If so, get a newer w/s and see what happens.

[CPR]

This kind of thing drives me nuts too, I have never seen a properly repaired windshield done by a pro. I have no idea how my repairs compare, maybe very good maybe very bad. Just wish there was a way to actually see a before and after picture to be sure. If there is someone near you who will ride with you for a day do it, would jump at the chance myself.

[glassdoctor]

I might be able to post a few pics of average repairs. The problem is that a good closup picture can make a good repair look "bad" and everyone is used to the "invisible" repair pictures. Nobody in the industry actually provides pictures of what a real repair looks like when viewed in such a way that the scars can be seen.

All the before/after pics show an invisible after shot, that's low resolution, out of focus at best and a backdrop that would make any repair invisible.

A truely in focus, high resolution, macro shot would not be very impressive given the current standards.

Also, there are real-world repairs that just don't measure up to the classroom perfect repairs.

Who wants to post pics and get flamed?

[StarQuest]

Magicogar,

I guess my first question is why are you using heat? Are you sure your not melting the laminate? The only time I use heat is under vaccum when temperture is under 35 degrees or to dry out moisture. If those conditions don't exist get rid of the heat.

I think most of us can help you with this problem but we probably need more information as to what steps your taking.

That means write down every step separately so we can understand exactly what's happening. I'm sure it's a simple fix!