polishing

[dgarza]

ok I finally got pit filling down but now I need help with the polishing. I use the polish after I scrape the resin away and it sure makes the glass look good but the circle of resin still there always looks hasy or cloudy. do I need to get a buffer for my dremel to really give that area work over or what?

[magicogar]

I too have the same problem. Tried buffing it with my hand only and it gave good results, but it's still noticeable. Someone on here said they used an old leather that they skinned off of a neighbor's cow and that worked great.

[Delta Kits]

Disclaimer: Delta Kits does not condone the skinning of neighbor's cows for the windshield repair industry.

[dgarza]

yeah i saw that posting but have not been able to come by a piece of old leather! I also saw where somebody uses a revlon nail buffer. I bought that buffer and tried that as well and am not getting any better of a polish. as a matter of fact the first time I used it I pushed too hard and the side of the buffer (the harder grit side) touched the glass and left scratch marks that I cant get rid of. I didnt know I was scratching the windshield cause the polishing cream covered it up until i was done and wiped it away. Good thing that was on my windshield and not sombody elses!

[glassdoctor]

Most any "pit polish" from wsr suppliers should work well. If you don't have any bottled "for use in wsr", try some plastic polish or mild cutting compound/polish...

The key is getting the pit prepped well before you polish. Make sure the razor blade is still fresh and keep it at a 90* angle, etc... don't get too wild and rough or you can kinda chew up the surface of the pit when you scrape it.

I use a cotton buff wheel with a wizard or dremel. But you can get good results by hand also.

The leather and nail buffer are nifty things that some have adopted as their preffered "tools" but you don't have to use them... it's just another option.

Also, some pit resins polish up easier/clearer than others.

Last thing.. the pits will ALWAYS be somewhat visible. Even when the surface of the pit is polished perfectly clear and glossy, you can still see it. But you should be able to make it transparent and not white of cloudy on the surface...

[mafsu]

Glassdoctor you hit the nail on the head. I use pit polish and buff by hand with a rag. The pit is not going to disappear, but should be shiny like the glass. At worst it will look like a dried water spot on the windshield.

[gold star wsr]

dgarza,
If your polishing cream obscures your work, you are using way too much. All you need for a high gloss is a tiny little dab. Also I think I posted the last time this was a topic: use a light touch. Its called 'buffing' because you use gentle, light strokes. If the nail buffer scratched your glass, it is because you were pressing too hard.

[Repair1]

It was I that told you to kill the animals. #-o I have tried the cow,cats, dogs hell even killed the rabbit the only thing that I found would hold up is a good old elk hide. I really don't think it matters just some buck skin soft leather with a shinny side. I have this huge Elk hide that I just had to get tanned god only knows why :-k so if anybody wants a small piece drop me an name an address in a e-mail I will send it to you.

This is a copy of the post you were talking about.

Couple things come to mind number one being a good quality pit filler seems that some of the cheap stuff doesn

[cure4glass]

Brian, do you have enough to make a pair of boots? If so,I'm interested. Softest boots I've ever owned, but can't find them so easy anymore..okay, back to wsr..