Glass technology repair Kit

Post your windshield repair tips, questions, advice! Note there is a sub-forum specifically for business development questions.
Delta Kits
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Post by Delta Kits »

CrackedUp wrote:You should remove the crack jacks before curing so the windshield can settle back into it's normal level of stress.
In most cases, you definitely want the windshield to be in a "normal level of stress" before curing. Long cracks are a little different though. If you need a crack expander, and use it, you need to leave it on until fully cured. The reason is, that by removing the crack expander, you are flexing the windshield back, which can draw air in to an already filled crack.

Never move attached crack expanders until the crack is completely cured.
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CrackedUp
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Post by CrackedUp »

I simply disagree. I've never had air drawn in by removing the crack expanders before curing. I was taught that the windshield needs to be allowed to return to it's normal state before curing. Air will not be drawn in but some excess resin may be pushed out, which actually helps give you a better surface seal at cure.

Always remove crack expanders before curing.
mafsu

Post by mafsu »

WSR I know this won't help much but I don't think you can go wrong with either of your final two choices. I have dealt with both companies and both have provided me with excellent customer service. My opinion is Delta bridges and injectors are a little better than GT's. GT's resin is a little better than Delta's.
gold star wsr
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Post by gold star wsr »

cracked up,

If you want to continue the crack jack discussion further, start a new thread, so we can keep this topic on track. Thanks.
desertstars

Glass Technology/crack jacks

Post by desertstars »

I happen to agree with CrackedUp.

Allow the w/s to recover to it's normal state without expanders with one addition.

When the crack is fully injected with repair resin, apply an extra drop of resin every two inches or so under the curing film in order to overfill the crack and "float" rather than press down tightly on the curing film enough to block oxygen and then cure under a bit of slight vacuum and not much.

Normal resin contraction or shrinkage under curing will have a tendency to suck in resin rather than air under that circumstance.

Too little resin on the overlay of a crack will result in exposed edges and the light reflected and refracted from those exposed edges will make it look like the crack hasn't been repaired.

When I fill a crack and before I cure, I want the windshield as near normal as possible and I want the bunched and sloppy-looking overfill under the curing strip to look like either the preserved spine from the Hunchback of Notre Dame or the San Andreas fault before I scrape.

That's my two sense worth.
CrackedUp
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Post by CrackedUp »

Thanks for giving a more detailed example of what I was getting at.
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