Drill Star Breaks?

Post your windshield repair tips, questions, advice! Note there is a sub-forum specifically for business development questions.
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Hooky

Post by Hooky »

Just wondering if anyone can give some pointers on drilling star breaks. I drilled one yesterday but after the hole was drilled I was not sure if I needed to do the mini bulls eye to open all the legs. I assume you do to make sure all legs are open. Also, the actual pit where I drilled was visable after the repair as if the drill bit burned the glass or something. I assume that was a mistake that I made. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. :)
StarQuest

Post by StarQuest »

Hooky,

If you need to drill a break, only drill in with light pressure and shallow. If you drill into the laminant you already screwed up the repair. Not only does it leave a permanant scare but it will also close off access to filling legs.
Hooky

Post by Hooky »

Hey StarQuest,
Thanks for the response. The depth was less than 1/2 of the bits bur so I assume the hole was shallow. The area that makes me wonder if I did it right or not is the actual rim of the drilled hole on the outside edge of the windshield. The repaired damage itself was hard to see and I was pleased with it and the customer was very happy. The actual spot where :) where I drilled was hard to find but was visable and it seems to me that the drill bit burned the glass or scared it enough that it was visable after the repair. Is it possible for that to happen? Maybe I'm being to picky and expecting to much. I'm not sure.
Thanks Again
GlassStarz
Senior Member
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Location: Southern California

Post by GlassStarz »

Some stars are like motherinlaws big and fru in ugly and no matter how much you try they just wont go away!

As far as how to repair the ugly ones I drill until it pops (small bull) A real ugh'o I will put the injector on and vac it first to pull air then apply the resin( if you use resins that come in thin or other thicknesses use the thinest) slow dont hurry cycle several times and make sure the UV is totaly off the repair so it doesnt cure before the legs fill. Use your awl to flex the legs when they all have filled maintain pressure than start the cure. I did a 68 Vette the other day ugly star on passenger side looks 80% better than when I started but yes old breaks combined with old glass are hard

(watched a friend put his crack jack on the center of a star from inside and apply very slight constant pressure while filling then released the jack and reaplied about 4 times alternating between pressure cycles but I dont have the who ha's to do it myself the whole time I could invision the 5 legs taking off at once they didnt and the repair was perfect but havnt been brave enough to try that way myself yet) :oops:
StarQuest

Post by StarQuest »

Hooky,

Believe it or not, when I have to drill I barley go in further than 1/64 of a inch. If you have something really tight then I might suggest popping a little bullyseye. Have to be very careful though when temps up or shield is hot. Cause you'll spread cracks. Sounds like your talking about the pit area. No matter how good you are with repairs you'll always see your pit fill even after you polish them. Customers don't see them but you will if your fussy. If you ever do hit the lami while drilling you'll know. The only time I'll ever drill that deep is when I'm trying to refill an old repair. Sometimes it's neccessary! Which I always hate doing :roll:

Keep up the good work :wink:
mafsu

Post by mafsu »

When drilling a star you should probably go ahead and pop the bullseye. If your pit probe is small enough to fit into the drill hole a little pressure in the hole with your probe will do the trick. As for the bit "burning" the glass when you drilled the hole, try cleaning up the top edge of your drill hole with your bur. That should make the hole look a lot better.
Hooky

Fixing other techs' mistakes

Post by Hooky »

Many Thanks To All that replied.


Man, this forum is great!

:wink:
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