Question about star breaks ????

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Hooky

Post by Hooky »

I've read in the forum in numerous post where people are drilling star breaks. My question is when you drill the break is that it? No mini bull's-eye?
Thanks
Hooky
StarQuest

Post by StarQuest »

Hookey,

Personally, I'll always attemp filling a repair including a star break without any drilling or popping a mini bullseye. When I see no fill, I'll then try drilling and if that fails, then I'll pop a bullseye. Some techs like to pop everything and others like to drill or do both. I find my best finished results with repairs normally require neither.
magicogar

Post by magicogar »

When you said pop a bullseye, you meant popping it in the center of the star?

Another question for all the veterans. How long does a star leg has to be for you to start drilling the end of the leg and pop a bullseye? I've done one with 2" long without drilling and it didn't spread on me.
mafsu

Post by mafsu »

I only drill a leg if it won't fill from the original pit. By that I mean only after I have exhausted all other options. This is very infrequent maybe once every six months. I have filled legs that were between 3 and 4 inches with out having to drill the leg. It of course takes a little longer to fill them that long, but I think the appearance is really hurt if you drill them. To my knowledge none of these have ever spread.
magicogar

Post by magicogar »

I came across a combination star that has multiple little legs in between the big legs (not sure what the right term is). Everything filled great except for these tiny legs. Is this where it's a good idea to pop a bullseye or try other methods to make it run to the center? Or just tell the customers that it's 85% better than before and smile?
StarQuest

Post by StarQuest »

Magicogar,

Are you refering to a combination break where you'll have a bullseye with tiny little star legs showing within the circle that just don't seem to fill? Occasionally I'll run into these. If probing from the outside of the glass doesn't work try probing or using your finger to apply pressure from the inside. Sometimes it works for me and other times it doesn't. There's always a possibility that the hit was hard enough to fracture the inside glass. With this case resin won't flow past the PVB layer. I have also experienced hits where the damage area looks powdered. When I see these I will always tell the customer prior to repairing that the cosmetics won't come out perfect but will still guarentee against further spreading. This is because all those tiny little fractures still reflect light even after being filled. Looks diamond like in appearence when sunlight hits it.

Not sure how much this helps, Maybe others have some opinions to share.
magicogar

Post by magicogar »

Those are the legs I'm talking about. The little ones that don't fill and looks sparkly when you shine a light to it after finishing the repair.
screenman
Senior Member
Posts: 3192
Joined: February 25th, 2004, 1:44 pm
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Location: uk Lincolnshire

Post by screenman »

I would suggest that it is best to drill and pop before you start to you start to fill. Otherwise the resin in the pit will lubricate the drill making it harder to do its job correctly I tend to drill and pop most starbreaks as this speeds up the filling process without any detrimental effect to the overall repair.( bet someone differs on this opinion) I like to do the job as quick as possible and get onto the next one.

As for your question about the small very fine legs I have come across this quite a few times, learn to recognise what can and cannot be filled and sell it to the customer before you start the job.

Better to undersell and leave the customer happy then oversell and dissapointed.
33,000 + screen repairs over 18 years and still learning.
Over
V-Glass

Post by V-Glass »

I personally drill all stars and combos about 3/4ths down. Reason being if you try first without drilling and realize you need to, your pit is now "wet" with resin and it's a mess. As far as 'popping' goes, only if absolutely necessary. If you're patient enough and have good pressure, a good resin will flow as far out as five inches. Why make more damage if you don't have to? Speed is important but not to the point of compromise. The finished repair is definitely worth the wait. Then there's always that stubborn star leg that just will not take for whatever reason. More input on that would be appreciated (specifically, how to make it fill without making it worse.) Thanks to all! -V
GlassStarz
Senior Member
Posts: 1951
Joined: November 12th, 2003, 6:11 pm
Enter the middle number please (3): 5
Location: Southern California

Post by GlassStarz »

Sparkly usualy mean there is something like water in the leg use more vac and pressure cycles and flex the leg from its end
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