Newbie

[glazman]

Hi all

i m a newbie to wrs have been on the road for 3 days now & picking up work. So far so good . today i had a bullseye No problem , or so I thought. It is probably better to say it was more like a half bullseye. I drilled the impact point & set about the repair - pressure on a little heat from inside the car waited 3 minutes. pressure off & waited. I repeated this process but the outer regions of the bullseye would not & didnt fill. can anybody help as to why this didnt fill. The starbreaks I did work out fine I was please with the outcome of them.

[GlassStarz]

A bull is not what it looks like it is really like a funnel in the glass small at impact and wide at the bottom and very thin all the way down. It isnt really a big hollow spot so drilling doesnt do much good there generally isnt any break directly under the impact point other than what you get at impact. if you do use the drill just buff the impact to open it up a little I use the awl to open up things not my drill. then apply pressure then vac as usual only do it several times working the air out of the bottom if you see black thats water and it has to come out as well. after it looks like its all gone cycle another time and hold the pressure on the last cycle a couple minutes after it looks filled then remove you UV shield and let cure with the pressure still on this should eliminate that nasty air ring. If you do a bull correctly it will be your best repair with final results close to invisible.
Wax on Wax Off Grasshopper

[glazman]

Thanx for the info.do you mean that I dont need to drill just use the probe to clean out impact point.

[GlassStarz]

yes with bulls clean the impact point put the point of the awl in it if needed and gently push to open the path but normaly you dont need to do this. Drilling doesnt do you any good the bull is a cone or funnel exception being the combo bull with crack lines running through it occasionaly you will have to drill these but again not very often Good Luck

[screenman]

Glassstarz I do not understand how the water will come out if you start filling and it is already in there, surely you have to start with a dry damage. In the Uk we have different colour water than yours I think it appears as silver and the black in our bullseye is the air. If I ever come across a bullseye which will not fill to the outer perimeters I may drill and pop right on the outside of the damage and fill from there I agree this does not help the cosmetics but it looks better than one which is not filled, this is of course after I have tried every other weapon in my arsenol.
Water is the screen repairers biggest enemy get it out first .

[glazman]

heres a picture similar to the bullseye that I encountered. It s the damage around the outer area that caused me a problem. Would appreciate advise as to how to go about repairing it

http://uk.msnusers.com/h92lb15bas2qai08 ... llseye.jpg

[GlassStarz]

Screenman Never does air have color (although I have lived in LA and London and found both to have a solid content:twisted:) either way rather than argueing about what it is lets agree that it need to come out 8) if I see stuff in the break before I begin I vac first but if you miss it a strong vac cycle will pull it out water is a thinner viscosity and will pull through resin with minimal contamination (ever notice how the resin gets pumped in but the air in the injector doesnt? same thing) but hopefully you have removed it first so you dont have to count on the science guy. Liquid Resins has a cool tape that explains it im no scientist all I know is it works.

[screenman]

Glassstarz I guess I made a mess of that reply. I agree air does not have colour, the black you see is actualy the change in refraction as the light passes through air this is harder to see when light passes through water as it has roughly the same refraction index as glass. This is why when you see a bullseye full of water it appears to be smaller than it is. I have allways found that when you introduce the resin to water or moisture it emulsifies therefore I have never been able to remove water once I have started filling the repair. I have removed the resin water mix by burning out I would not recommend this to anyone without a lot of practise.

[GlassStarz]

I agree it sure is easier if you suck it out first and your right sometimes its there anyway, You gotta drill to the snot spot while still under the injector and force it out the vent hole cause otherwise its not going anywhere also will allow you to vent any cloudy resin that may have been contaminated by water cap with cure tab then pressure cure with your thumb on the tab remove thumb let that one cure and move on to what hopefully will be your easier next job.
vac first is the easiest way to go for sure

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