More advice please!

[WS UK]

I have just had a phone call from a customer we did a repair for 3 days ago. it was a standard bullseye repair and all but the pit was invisible when finished. He reckons a line has apppeared around the outer circumference of the bullseye. My thinking is that i didn't cure it enough, and as it cured fully the resin contracted slightly. 2 questions: Is this the cause and is there anything i can do to rectify it?
Cheers (I'll get there eventually!!!)

[GlassStarz]

Either that or a daisey? I like to cure under pressure to keep the shrink away on bulls. Not much you can do after the fact good luck

[StarQuest]

WS UK,

Not trying to put you guys down but have you done any training or simply just experimented with a practice shield for a month before selling your services? Sounds to me that you just jumped into things before you were comfortable with your your skills. Please do yourself a favor before things get worse. Find a seasoned tech in your area and just pay him something for a week or two until you become more educated with repair. Hope this response doesn't offend you but I'm just trying to help. With some proper training you wouldn't be having all these problems.

[WS UK]

Thanks for the advice. We have received some training but its like any trade, the real learning is achieved on the job. Weve encountered two problems up to yet and attempted to obtain some advice from you guys, who have an obvious abundance of experience in the industry.
We have both worked in engineering for 20 plus years and strive for perfection. In my book the only dumb question is the one which isn't asked!
This forum is a real wealth of knowledge which we have benefited from up to yet and hope to do continue to do so in the future.
Who knows, in the future we may be able to help other new comers to the trade.
A serious question for you GS, are there still repairs to test your skills or do you get to the stage where nothings new and youv'e seen it all before?

[GlassStarz]

All are different and everything is new thats where the experience comes in you lok at a break and recognise some wierdness you might have come across before or the break doesnt fill the way you wanted but you have learned how to keep it from curing and redo it the right way.
Your right myself when I first hit the road I thought I did good repairs but have learned alot just through experience. Like the dentist says THE MORE YOU DRILL AND FILL THE BETTER YOU GET AT IT

The thing about this place is when you hit a bump or have a question people will give you advice for free you gotta weed through the duumb stuff but hey free is free

[gold star wsr]

WS UK

I still encounter some that challenge me. Yesterday I arrived to repair a woman's ws. Her husband had tried to describe it on the phone and he did a pretty good job. I said it sounded like it could be do-able, and it wasnt far out of my way. It was a bulls eye combo with a set of nearly perfect concentric circles surrounding it, but none of the star legs exceeded the outer circle. Radius was about an inch and a quarter. I explained to her that this could be *repaired*, but that cosmetically there would probably be quite a star remaining. Her main hope was to prevent it from cracking out snce her deductible was very high. Time-wise, it was a killer... but I did manage to fill it, and even made it look pretty decent, all things considered. She was pleased.

[screenman]

Sorry mate I would say moisture again, if you have dried it out using heat it is possible you have either not got it dry right to the edges or you have not let the screen cool enough.

The moisture that is normaly left when you dry out a bullseye it right at the outer edge up against the pvb when you fill this can sometimes actualy push itself between the glass and the pvb this in time will evaporate somehow and leave a black air ring.

If you have not allowed the screen to cool properly then the glass or the pvb is still expanded when you do the repair.

[Masterglass]

I know delta does'nt agree but all resins have a percentage of shrinkage, so cure under pressure always. They also have a exothermic reaction, so after curing around the injector under pressure, remove injector and before applying pit filler, cure for 2 minutes then apply pit filler and cure again, I guarantee your repairs will be much better. If you have ever wondered why you see so many repairs with the pit filler gone, this is why. If you trap the gas in the break a little black will reappear where you had it clear. Also, the gas will push on the not fully cured pit filler and pop it loose. Hope this helps.

[Jeremiahswindshieldrepair]

It was almost certainly water in the chip. WHat happens is the water dissipates after a short while and then there is a hollow spot left where the water was.

[Delta Kits]

I know delta does'nt agree but all resins have a percentage of shrinkage, so cure under pressure always.

Actually, we do agree that resins shrink, but we disagree with your method of solving that.

When you apply pit resin to the break, don't push the curing tab with your thumb. What you want to do is create a mound of resin, which will then negate the problem with shrinkage.

Once it's cured, there is still a mound there, with an imperceptible amount that has filled in for the shrinkage problem. Then, simply scrape it flat and polish.