Windshield Repair Forum

Well I can say I have also had the leaky seal on a larger pit.... after I started the repair. I find the pit filler hardens faster than the resin itself. What I do is remove the bridge, add the filler and cure perhaps 30sec. The test is if the tab pulls free of the filler clean. I scrape clean and dill a hole over the break. I dont drill through the filler as I find it destroys a bit. Ill drill just beside it in the glass and then pop a bulls into the break. I then fill as per norm. I have never had a problem doing it. I use a LR UV protector which is large enough to work under. I know some may think the drill hole beside the pit will not look great cosmeticly, but remember a small hole is nothing next to a pit this big.

Jonnyques,

Brilliant suggestion I will try that today on a practise screen. Many thanks for your input into this forum.

I also drill beside the pit when using this method. It allows for better access. Usually a pit this large is also very deep. The depth makes access after drilling difficult and popping a decent bullseye next to impossible. As Jonnyques stated it also saves your bit.

MAFSU,

Please contact me. I tried get you but your email is full. I have something you might be interested in.

If the pit is just a little bit bigger, I rough up the whole pit and carefully put a very small amount of pit filler around the edge, then cover with new smooth cellophane and cure. Sometimes this takes 2-3 tries to shrink the opening enough. If you're lucky, no resin will run down into the break.

If the pit is a lot bigger, I fill the pit and cure and drill alongside like posted above. Sometimes it takes more than one drill hole.

If the pit is huge and the customer says he'll accept any cosmetic outcome, I half-cover the pit on the downward side with cellophane (like a dam) and pour a thin resin into the pit and try to massage and burp air out of the break with my probe. Get it as filled as possible and finish with thicker resin and pit filler.

I try to only use the thin stuff on stubborn stars and those thin tight batwings as the thin resin does not have a good refractive index match to the glass when cured like the thicker stuff does my own studies have shown.It is also significantly weaker when I tested the thinner resin on crack tests.