Windshield Repair Forum

Ok, here's how it works. This is so cool.

First off you need a brand new razor blade that has never been used. You need a UV Shield or something that blocks the Sunlight. You need a curing peice of tape (Not the square plastic curing strips, they won't work), and the pit resin.

Ok, just so you all know, this will not work on chips that have a large surface area. This is for small impact area's, or drill holes.

First thing you do is fix the chip (Obviously). Place the UV shield over the impact and drill area. Take your resin and put a drop in the drill hole and make sure all the pit is filled with pit resin. WARNING: just use enough to fill the pit, don't put a lot of excess resin in. Then while the resin is still in liquid form, take the new razor and angle it at a 45 degree angle and go over the chip making the liquid smool with the windshield. You will have to go over it a few times. BTW have the blade facing away from the chip as you go over it, like in a reverse angle. Take your towel and wipe away any resin on the glass around the chip. Then take the tape and put it over the chip. Let it cure and remove. You might have to take a razor to the area around the chip for what your towel missed just don't go over the impact area. Take a towel and clean the glass. Walla.... you now have a impact area that should be smooth as the glass and clear. No scrap marks.

P.S. You will need to practice this about 20 or 30 times until you get the hang of it. Once you do, you will be absolutly amazed how well this works. I have customers that can't even find the chips anymore since I have been using this technique. Let me know how this works for you all.

David
Coitster

thanks Coitster. works like a charm had to try a few times this week end. better results no doubt, thanks again. jim

Could you please elaborate on the "curing tape" vs "curing strips". The rest sounds great.

Merci

part# 77-8 http://www.deltakits.com/dki/misc3.html

Sunshine(of Jeff)

Is this an adhesive tape?

Merci

No it is similar to cellophane. or seran wrap.

so after you remove the bridge assembly, instead of immediately curing, place the UV shield over the area and proceed with your instructions?

David do you now do this in the wiper path also? I remember you showing me this trick. I thought you had said to only do it where the wiper dosn't pass.

Starman: One thing I do or am aware of is the amount of resin in the pit before I put on the pit filler. I often take a corner of the tab and work the pit fill into the pit. I know this is contrary to what delts shows for sealing but its helped me. I used to try and put the pit fill on ASAP after removing the bridge. I thought resin was or would run out of the break so I needed to seal it as fast as possible. Now I know thats not the case. It just seemed to me that puting the filler on to fast made it sit on top of the thin resin that was still in the pit. By giving it a few seconds, or using the tab corner (I always do this on a drill hole) I get the pit filler down into the pit. I always make sure there are NO air bubbles in the fill as they weaken it. Put the tab on the way delta shows and you have a goog strong pit fill. This way you know its the pit filler under the tab and it hasnt been squeezed out or mixed with the repair resin. JMO John