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Re: I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..

Posted: June 15th, 2010, 12:57 pm
by Ricersux
Crackhappy: Could you please give us a step by step detailed description of how "you" perform a repair? That will help those that have been doing this for a long time a better understanding on how to help you achieve the results you want.

Re: I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..

Posted: June 16th, 2010, 6:45 pm
by TheCrackHappy
absolutley, well most of the time i dont really need to get moisture out of my breaks normally i cover it with gorilla tape. yes its ghetto but it works wonders with water lol. and i am using the milar tabs to cure my resin, for the inside of the windshield i use a thinner resin for the drill point capping i use a thick resin. most of my repairs come out at about 70% visibility back, but not all of them, i am charging people a bare minimum of 40$ just for the pits for an actual break its 50 then 5 for any additionals. also the strangest thing kept happening to me today, i would put 4 drops of resin into my plastic injector with triglass bridge and i would go to twist down the injector but there would be no resin. i got so frustrated that i actually kicked my self on accident :oops: lol ... what can i do to better improve? and where is the closest training shop around santa clarita ca?

Re: I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..

Posted: June 16th, 2010, 8:35 pm
by pickmaster60
I know that ROLAGS is voluntary but I do think there are a number of technicians that follow it. My company has a contract with several large accounts and one their requirements was that our repairs most be in compliance with ROLAGS. I encourage you read up on the standard, because it was created to "encourage technicians to strive for the highest quality repair; and codify the current best practices of laminated auto glass repair."

In section 8.1 it goes on to say in order to ensure the best possible repair, the technician shall do the following:

(1) Inspect the damage from both inside and outside the glass to determine if the damage is repairable (see clauses 6 and 7)
(2) Remove moisture, dirt, foreign matter, loose glass, and contamination from the damaged area
(3) If the temperature of the glass is outside the recommended range, cool or warm the glass accordingly
(4) Access the damage through probing or drilling
(5) Protect the resin from premature curing
(6) Remove the air from the break, either by vacuum or displacement, and fill the void with resin
(7) Properly perform pit filling and resin curing
(8) Finish the repair to be flush with the glass
(9) Inspect the finished repair (see clause 9)

Your post sounds so incriminating and implies that you do a horrible job. I suggest that you get formal training from a windshield manufacture ASAP because you are going the wrong road.

Re: I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..

Posted: June 16th, 2010, 9:19 pm
by GlassStarz
Im a little over a hour from you happy to help you out with some training

Re: I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..

Posted: June 16th, 2010, 9:25 pm
by Kgobin
TheCrackHappy,
We are 831 miles up I-5 ;) and we would be more than happy to train you on our equipment. Also, we have a Trade-In Program; Trade any product, any brand.

Re: I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..

Posted: June 16th, 2010, 9:34 pm
by Mr Bill
TheCrackHappy wrote:absolutley, well most of the time i dont really need to get moisture out of my breaks normally i cover it with gorilla tape. yes its ghetto but it works wonders with water lol.
Just what are you doing with the gorilla tape?

Re: I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..

Posted: June 17th, 2010, 10:26 pm
by TheCrackHappy
GlassStarz wrote:Im a little over a hour from you happy to help you out with some training
well then email me directly at and we shall discuss that because i could use it.