I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..
I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..
Just today i had learned about popping a star break into a bubble break by using a probe and rounding the fingers of the crack. now my question is how is the final visibility factor come out and how can u guarantee that it will become a bubble break and not something a customer is gonna freak out over?
Also is it true that drilling the windshield actually lowers the structural strength of the glass?
Also is it true that drilling the windshield actually lowers the structural strength of the glass?
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Re: I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..
First I would say practice your popping on your practice windshield until you are happy every single time. That way you will learn what to expect and what you can achieve. I do not feel that drilling an popping weakens the structural quality of the repair when carried out correctly, the resin bond should be stronger than the glass itself. You should manage your customers expectations before you commence the repair, with enough experience from your practice windshield you should know what each repair is going to look like finished before you start, this will enable you to educate the customer on what to expect.
It has been said that drilling through the PVB can lower the strength of the windshield, however when popping you should not be drilling any where close to the PVB so that should not be a problem. Personally after experimenting with PVB I find it extremely hard to tear even when I have cut a edge to start the tear, so I feel a small drill hole in the PVB will not effect the strength, apart from the actual drilled area itself. However I have no scientific evidence of my trials.
It has been said that drilling through the PVB can lower the strength of the windshield, however when popping you should not be drilling any where close to the PVB so that should not be a problem. Personally after experimenting with PVB I find it extremely hard to tear even when I have cut a edge to start the tear, so I feel a small drill hole in the PVB will not effect the strength, apart from the actual drilled area itself. However I have no scientific evidence of my trials.
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Re: I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..
The key to sucessfully popping a bullseye is to drill about half way through the top layer of glass. If you do not drill deep enough when you attempt to pop a bulleye you may end up with a combination break. If you drill too deep, usually when you attempt to pop your bullseye you will hit the lamination a create a distortion.
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Re: I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..
CV I am a bit confused by your reply, could you please clarify it for me. As I see it a combination as we know it over here is a bullseye with a crushed centre, which may or may not have legs extending from it. I find if one of my students attempts a pop without drilling deep enough then the only things that happens is either nothing or a legs extends, that is if they are drilling into a tight star break, if it is a long crack then that will just extend.
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Re: I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..
I have found that if you do not drill deep enough it will create a bullseye with legs. This has happened to me on more than one occasion, when this happens then you have to make sure the legs that form completely fill. I have also found that if you drill too close to the end of a crack especially on a hot windshield that the crack will run past the bullseye. I will always cool the glass before attempting to pop a bullseye.
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Re: I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..
Many thanks for your reply, we call a mini bullseye with legs astarbreak so that was the confusion, as for hot glass I agree with you not that we get any over here. Going back to my original post practise should be on a practise windshield not a customers.
Re: I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..
now do you actually HAVE to pop every break? because i work at this carwash that pretty much wants to purchase anything i need to provide this service plus the windshield buffing. he also is sending me to the paintless dent removal school. but my main concern is the cosmetic of my repairs.. i had a terrible incident where the customer had tried to tell the manager of the carwash that i DID NOT repair her windshield, asked for a refund and an explination on why there was a tiny bowl in her windshield ( because i press the resin in under the tab so i dont scratch the resin to where it looks like smoke. but the bubble break did look about 65% better , how i can i really improve the cosmetics of it all, please any tips or secrets of the trade will help. i tap the back of the windshield while repairing i understand the importance of the force the injector puts on the crack, but could it be the resin i use?
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Re: I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..
The first thing that comes to mind at a car wash is moisture in the break. Are you sufficiently drying each chip prior to the repair?
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Re: I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..
If I understand what you re teling us you dont scrpe the resin flat because it looks smoke like or cloudy when you do? Hve you never heard of pit polish? Put a drop on the tip of your finger and rub till its smooth and clear
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Re: I wouldn't say I'm a Newb but..
TheCrackHappy, I take it you are not charging for any of your repairs at the moment, I advise you to talk to Delta and get some training pronto. The reason I say this is because somewhere something in your previous training has been missed out. Remember this about PDR schools only 1 in every 400 who attend a course ends up making a living out of it, be prepared for lots and lots of hard work and practise with PDR.
WSR is not hard to do with good basic training most can master it well, however the important part is good basic training.
Could you explain to us how you dry out and what premature curing aids you might use, this will enable us all to help you along more.
WSR is not hard to do with good basic training most can master it well, however the important part is good basic training.
Could you explain to us how you dry out and what premature curing aids you might use, this will enable us all to help you along more.
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