plastic cure tabs
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plastic cure tabs
Just wondering how many times you use the same cure tab before tossing it? I have found I use the same one over and over again. I ask this because when you buy them you get so many! Im thinking I wouldn't use that many in a life time. So Im wondering if I should be tossing them after a certain amount of use?
Just wondering
Just wondering
Re: plastic cure tabs
I use them for a long time. I buy them 200 at a time and those last me 6-9 months.
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Re: plastic cure tabs
I use tabs until I either lose them or they get all beat up... bent, wrinckled, and creased. Thick tabs don't really get beat up, so you can used them almost indefinitely. They will eventually get hazy and scuffed... you can polish it clear or toss it.
I only use thin tabs anymore so I go through quite a few... probably half I lose on windy days.
I like clean fresh tabs so I don't mind tossing them, but still probably use the same 3-4 tabs at least a couple weeks... never really kept track.
I only use thin tabs anymore so I go through quite a few... probably half I lose on windy days.

I like clean fresh tabs so I don't mind tossing them, but still probably use the same 3-4 tabs at least a couple weeks... never really kept track.
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Re: plastic cure tabs
I use overhead projector film cut into small pieces or whatever size you want it costs about
33,000 + screen repairs over 18 years and still learning.
Over
Over
Re: plastic cure tabs
I also use the overhead transparency sheets. Found them at Office Depot on special......$8.95 for box of 60 (8 1/2"x11"). One box will make around 5,000 cure tabs. Needless to say.... at that price I don't even bother to reuse same cure tab twice.
For those of you that buy these from a wsr supplier, my advice is to stop throwing your money away!
For those of you that buy these from a wsr supplier, my advice is to stop throwing your money away!
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Re: plastic cure tabs
Thanks guys! I never would have thought about the projector sheets. I may have some in a old desk. Her i thought this would be a dumb question.... turns out i learned something new!!
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Re: plastic cure tabs
I can't remember where I read this and for the life of me can't find the material from which I read the info but......
maybe Jeff can correct me if I'm wrong. Curing tabs should not be used once there is oil or dirt or dried resin on the surface. Wouldn't that hinder the curing of the resin or maybe cause problems after it's cured? If my tabs have been used 3-4 times, they go into my trash. I like them pretty clear and clean.
The tabs I use are thicker, I think Delta's are the thicker ones also.
Tabs are used when curing the pit filler on the finished repair. They are used to prevent air from contacting the resin during the curing process. Correct? Should a special type of tab be used or does it not make a difference?
maybe Jeff can correct me if I'm wrong. Curing tabs should not be used once there is oil or dirt or dried resin on the surface. Wouldn't that hinder the curing of the resin or maybe cause problems after it's cured? If my tabs have been used 3-4 times, they go into my trash. I like them pretty clear and clean.
The tabs I use are thicker, I think Delta's are the thicker ones also.
Tabs are used when curing the pit filler on the finished repair. They are used to prevent air from contacting the resin during the curing process. Correct? Should a special type of tab be used or does it not make a difference?
Re: plastic cure tabs
What kind of resin are you guys using with the projector sheet tabs? I tried some of these this summer and they stuck to the resin so much that they would tear if you tried to remove them.
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Re: plastic cure tabs
Yes, I tried some projector material and it stuck to the resin bad for me too.
I use polypropylene sheet protectors... the heaviest mil. you can find. These make thin tabs adn they don't stick at all... even to half cured resin.
They also don't make gas bubbles in the cured pit like thick tabs can do for me.
They are cheap and easy to find also.
I have tried a few different pit tabs from wsr suppliers and some of them were terrible. My "walmart" supplies are much better. Sorry Jeff.
I use polypropylene sheet protectors... the heaviest mil. you can find. These make thin tabs adn they don't stick at all... even to half cured resin.
They also don't make gas bubbles in the cured pit like thick tabs can do for me.
They are cheap and easy to find also.
I have tried a few different pit tabs from wsr suppliers and some of them were terrible. My "walmart" supplies are much better. Sorry Jeff.

Re: plastic cure tabs
Mafsu,
I have to be honest with you, I've tried different projector sheets in the past and had the same results as you. I pretty much gave up on trying them. Then one day while I was at Office Depot buying supplies I seen these on special. Seen a open box and ask sales rep if I could just buy a couple sheets to try out. They said just take them. Went home hit my practice shield and they worked great. Ended up going back and purchased 3 boxes. (wish I had bought more) Only information on the box aside from item number is they're manufactured for Office Depot in Italy. I quess it was my lucky day! They're thicker mill than I've purchased in the past from WSR suppliers but seem to work much better than the thinner tabs. Never had one stick, peel out or left dimple with any used pit fill product.
I have to be honest with you, I've tried different projector sheets in the past and had the same results as you. I pretty much gave up on trying them. Then one day while I was at Office Depot buying supplies I seen these on special. Seen a open box and ask sales rep if I could just buy a couple sheets to try out. They said just take them. Went home hit my practice shield and they worked great. Ended up going back and purchased 3 boxes. (wish I had bought more) Only information on the box aside from item number is they're manufactured for Office Depot in Italy. I quess it was my lucky day! They're thicker mill than I've purchased in the past from WSR suppliers but seem to work much better than the thinner tabs. Never had one stick, peel out or left dimple with any used pit fill product.
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