new and frustrated

[fastfixx]

CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT I'M NOT GETTING:
As far as doing chip and small damage repair why do i need the bridge as i don't see a reason nor any differnce to the repair not using it.( just dripping the resin onto the windshield) i have watched the video 6 times and don't see what i'm doing wrong.

[mafsu]

What system are you using?

[code3wsr]

for one is your practice windshield laying on a bench or is it sitting up like on a car? its hard to drop resin into an upright windshield.

[Sneck]

The bridge provides a sturdy platform to hold the injector. Regardless of what system and method you use, at some point the resin is pumped in and air is vaccumed out.
I can understand how resin can leach into a break without an injector or bridge, but if you want to have a consistent result, you are going to need a bridge to hold the injector.

The bridge and injector together along with the repair process (according to the kit mfg), are going to do alot more than what gravity alone can do.

Lots of companies have been designing and selling windshield repair equipment for some time now, and all (that I know of) have some kind of bridge and injector. There are times when leaching resin into a crack without a bridge or injector are necessary, but you simply have to have a bridge and injector in order to follow the repair process of the kit mfg.

Hang in there, and trust your kit manufacturer and their specific repair process.

Sneck

[Jeremiahswindshieldrepair]

THE FOLLOWING IS THE OPINION OF BRIAN AND BRIAN ONLY SO DON'T ASSOCIATE MY ANSWER WITH ANYTHING YOU MAY THINK I AM INVOLVED WITH.... IF YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN:



I have found that drilling before I do every repair makes all my repairs come out good. Now when i say drilling I don't mean all the way through the first ply nor do I mean spiralling a hole down the middle of the chip ... simply clearing out some of the busted up glass with the tip of the spinning drill bit is enough ... sometimes it takes a deeper hole to get to the black part of the chip. Very rarely do I ever have to go to the laminate when I drill ... usually only on stopping cracks and such. If you drill your repairs will come out better more consistently and will normally take half the time or less to complete the repair because your resin actually flows instead of trying to fight its way through a tight opening. If you drill too much though it can leave a spiralling hole down the middle of your chip and on a very limited number of chips of a particular style that hole may be noticable to someone with a magnifying glass.... so try not to drill too far when drilling

I don't know what kind of kit you have but I do know that manufacturers are getting away from drilling due to a perceived lessening of clarity of the chip when completed. What this doesn't take into account is the relatively common type of chip that is either not connected to the impact point or where an impact point was not made but a crack was ... only a scuff is on top of the windshield. If you were to only read the manual or watch the video you wouldn't see those chips and you would think that drilling isn't even an option ... if that is the case give drilling a shot and see if that clears things up for you.

If that doesn't help make sure your injector is clear of debris and set right over the impact point basically on dead center if possible. If your bridge isn't over the impact point nothing will happen. Then make sure you are putting enough resin in to be able to fill up the whole chip .. 1-2 drops is not enough in most cases ... don't be stingy with the resin as too much resin will only cost you a few cents ... but too little resin can cost you 20-30 minutes of trying to mess with your bridge and nothing happening. If that no worky then take alittle more time .. sometimes the only thing that will get a chip fixed is time .. especially if a chip is really tight. If you are applying too much pressure that can make a chip too tight. You can try a little heat or maybe a little assistance pressure manually rather than waiting for an automatic bridge to work on it's own, but be careful with pressure as it can break a windshield out of course. I have never had a windshield break out when drilling though so don't let that scare you .. I have drilled every chip I have ever done (pretty much) and that is many thousands of chips .. probably over 20,000, and not a single crack out from drilling. I have had crack outs from pressure and heat both though.

DO NOT:
Wick the resin in without a bridge or pressurized system. The idea of a repair is to get the resin to the ends of a chip ... with wicking you have no pressure and no way of assuring a good quality repair or that the resin is going to go to the ends of the chip (yes I am going to get blasted for that statement)... where does a chip crack out from? The end of course .. so if there is even a little bit of the tip not filled it is as though you did nothing because the ONLY dangerous part of the chip, the end, is not filled.

Ok I have said enough, it is almost 3am I need to go to bed

[Delta Kits]

Fastfixx,

Rather than listening to the "drilling guy" , give your manufacturer a call for technical support. It sounds like an issue that will take more than a few posts on a forum, or an email. Call technical support and get this problem solved. That's my recommendation anyway.

If you're using a Delta Kits system, call for tech support at 1.888.811.3451

[mafsu]

That's where I was headed with my first post.

[fastfixx]

thanks for all your help

[Jeremiahswindshieldrepair]

We have all asked the same question .. what kit are you using? It is difficult to answer your question without knowing what you are using. While I appreciate your thanking us, we really haven't answered your question yet.

[scratchy]

If it makes you feel any better Brian, I drill 100% as well. Bits are cheap, resin is cheap, time is not. I had more problems being drill shy early last year. The Delta super skinny pear shaped bit works like magic and leaves no scar on most chips!