Combo breaks legs running?

[BmwJunkie]

Hey guys! I was doing a dime sized combo today, and as soon as I put presure on it, the legs started to run about a half inch each side of the break. I cooled the shield down to about 80 degrees or so but that did'nt seem to help. I backed the injector off a little and that seem to help a little. It stoped but most of the resin came out. I was just wondering what to do, besides taking the bridge off or backing the injector out. Also if it does run an half inch or so, should I drill the ends and pop a mini to stop it from running?
Any info will help.


Thanks, Scott P
A Clear View WR

[mafsu]

I wouldn't pop a mini after a half inch of spreading. What do you mean by most of the resin came out?

[BmwJunkie]

What I meant was, The resin seeped out of the injector.

[screenman]

Release some of the pressure off the injector seal ( this means unscrewing the injector slightly) whilst keeping some pressure in the injector. This will normally stop legs running after this just give it plenty of time on a very slight pressure and use plenty of vacuum cycles.

Check your screen for heat before you start every job in hot weather not that we have much of a problem with that over here it is still raining most days.

[StarQuest]

BmwJunkie,

It appears that your were working on a very hot shield. I work on these every day this time of year. Unfortunately, most of my serviced vehicles are always locked......so I don't have the luxury of cooling glass by opening doors or running AC. I start all these repairs using the least amount of stem and injector pressure possible to acquire a good seal. If you need to probe a star or combo use the very lightest pressure starting out, then slowly build up until leg opens. A little to much stem or probe pressure will cause a run out with a hot shield, so always practice patience and finess with these. First year I cracked out 4 sheilds doing these hot repairs, 2nd year 2, 3rd year 1 and so far this year "zero". So just to let you know they can be repaired hot without cooling, just takes a some practice and experience.

When it's hot in the summer I'll work on shields in direct sunlight that are 120-140 degrees without cooling. I could go through the whole procedure of using wet towels,daipers or other methods to cool glass......but honestly for me it just wasted time. If I have no keys....I do them hot! My summer repairs average 5-7 minutes and I don't intend on increasing that by cooling every hot shield anytime soon.