Practice -- Bad Results
Practice -- Bad Results
Can I get some advice on what I am doing wrong? Every so often I get this result and cannot get it cleaned up. Here are the things I have tried:
1) Reduce and increase pressure on injector
2) Probe through injector
3) Drill
4) Pop a bullseye
Obviosuly this looks like really bad and doesn't happen much but when it does I can't seem to correct it. Also, the damage is also magnified so looks worse than it would to the naked eye about 1-2 feet out.
By the way, the damage was caused by a punch from Delta.
BEFORE
http://www.snapfish.com/slideshow/Album ... t_=8116246
AFTER
http://www.snapfish.com/slideshow/Album ... t_=8116246
Thanks for the input. Tyler
1) Reduce and increase pressure on injector
2) Probe through injector
3) Drill
4) Pop a bullseye
Obviosuly this looks like really bad and doesn't happen much but when it does I can't seem to correct it. Also, the damage is also magnified so looks worse than it would to the naked eye about 1-2 feet out.
By the way, the damage was caused by a punch from Delta.
BEFORE
http://www.snapfish.com/slideshow/Album ... t_=8116246
AFTER
http://www.snapfish.com/slideshow/Album ... t_=8116246
Thanks for the input. Tyler
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1951
- Joined: November 12th, 2003, 6:11 pm
- Enter the middle number please (3): 5
- Location: Southern California
Re: Practice -- Bad Results
lots of air still in the break you need to use the vac cycle longer and do it several times with that big a chunk pass on the drill if you can
Re: Practice -- Bad Results
Tyler, nice pics. We should all try and use digital pics to try and get answers to questions when we can. Seeing is better than describing.
I agree with GlassStarz, there is still a lot of air left in the break, and doing several vac cycles should be the biggest help. I also agree with GlassStars about passing on using the drill if possible.
There is one more trick to try that you did not mention in your list of things you tried... and that is the use of heat. The use of heat is debatable among various techs here, some use it and some don't. All I could suggest is use it as the last trick in your bag.
If you have tried everything else, and you still have black (air pockets), using a little heat on the inside glass with a lighter will cause the glass to swell - initially looking like the break has filled, but in reality the glass has expanded from heat and actually swells the legs shut choking off the resin supply. Now wait for the glass to cool, because as the glass cools, it contracts and draws resin in - and when resin goes in - air goes out.
Hope this helps.
Sneck
I agree with GlassStarz, there is still a lot of air left in the break, and doing several vac cycles should be the biggest help. I also agree with GlassStars about passing on using the drill if possible.
There is one more trick to try that you did not mention in your list of things you tried... and that is the use of heat. The use of heat is debatable among various techs here, some use it and some don't. All I could suggest is use it as the last trick in your bag.
If you have tried everything else, and you still have black (air pockets), using a little heat on the inside glass with a lighter will cause the glass to swell - initially looking like the break has filled, but in reality the glass has expanded from heat and actually swells the legs shut choking off the resin supply. Now wait for the glass to cool, because as the glass cools, it contracts and draws resin in - and when resin goes in - air goes out.
Hope this helps.
Sneck
-
- Member
- Posts: 476
- Joined: December 3rd, 2003, 1:00 pm
- Enter the middle number please (3): 5
- Location: Panama City Beach, Florida
Re: Practice -- Bad Results
I agree with what's been said so far, oh and nice pic's too. I think it is really the punch "By the way, the damage was caused by a punch from Delta." It looks like something that Matt did!! If you let Jeff on the other hand do the punching.... Just had to get a dig in Jeff:)
Seriously now Tyler how many cycles have you done and what have you not used on the break? Is the area that is not filling disconnected and need to have an accessway provided to get a fill? I too use heat and find that when done correctly it will push out the air and pull in resin when it cools as sneck described etc.
Maybe you just need to get a punch from that guy that Mfg,s the snip, He has all the real good tools anyway....(competition dig):)
Good luck on your solution, Scott
Seriously now Tyler how many cycles have you done and what have you not used on the break? Is the area that is not filling disconnected and need to have an accessway provided to get a fill? I too use heat and find that when done correctly it will push out the air and pull in resin when it cools as sneck described etc.
Maybe you just need to get a punch from that guy that Mfg,s the snip, He has all the real good tools anyway....(competition dig):)
Good luck on your solution, Scott
My best mentor one said " be fair with your priceing but never too low, be honest with your customer/competition, when the day is done be sure you have done "good works", and always leave something of value on the barganing table!!
While my friend and trainer/ mentor Ray has moved on, his words live.
While my friend and trainer/ mentor Ray has moved on, his words live.
Re: Practice -- Bad Results
Also, If you have multiple types of resin, be shure to use a thin resin on a star break to ensure that the resin will fill all the tiny nooks and cranny's of a star break.
You did mention probing thru the injector. I learned this trick from someone on this forum a long time ago and have had very good success with it. You can also use the probe to apply pressure to the outside of the break (right next to the injector). Just hold pressure for about 5 to 10 seconds at a time to see if you get any resin/air movment at all. Try it at different points around the injector. If that doesn't seem to work, then probe thru the injector like you mentioned in your post. Hold pressure for 5 to 10 seconds (maybe a little longer - there is no exact science to it). You are just trying to cause a reaction with the air/resin/glass/and probe pressure in such a way as to allow air to escape.
Keep practicing. EXPERIMENT!!! Try things that no one would ever think of.
When I was practicing on a difficult star break out in my garage, I was trying to think of unique ways to get air to the surface of the brake. One thought that came to mind was vibration. So I grabbed my electric hand-held sander - you know the kind that vibrates? Anyway, I removed the sand paper so there was just the felt pad that would be touching the glass. I hit the switch on the sander and vibrated the glass in hopes of discovering a new way to remove 100% of the air in a hurry. Well, as it turns out, I did not get any more air out than I would have with traditional means - but it was sure fun trying.
I have not given up on my sander experiment, and I may still try the sander in more experiments in conjunction with probe pressure and heat. You don't have to stick with repairing windshields by the book if you happen to discover something else that gives a different result.
Keep at it.
Sneck
You did mention probing thru the injector. I learned this trick from someone on this forum a long time ago and have had very good success with it. You can also use the probe to apply pressure to the outside of the break (right next to the injector). Just hold pressure for about 5 to 10 seconds at a time to see if you get any resin/air movment at all. Try it at different points around the injector. If that doesn't seem to work, then probe thru the injector like you mentioned in your post. Hold pressure for 5 to 10 seconds (maybe a little longer - there is no exact science to it). You are just trying to cause a reaction with the air/resin/glass/and probe pressure in such a way as to allow air to escape.
Keep practicing. EXPERIMENT!!! Try things that no one would ever think of.
When I was practicing on a difficult star break out in my garage, I was trying to think of unique ways to get air to the surface of the brake. One thought that came to mind was vibration. So I grabbed my electric hand-held sander - you know the kind that vibrates? Anyway, I removed the sand paper so there was just the felt pad that would be touching the glass. I hit the switch on the sander and vibrated the glass in hopes of discovering a new way to remove 100% of the air in a hurry. Well, as it turns out, I did not get any more air out than I would have with traditional means - but it was sure fun trying.
I have not given up on my sander experiment, and I may still try the sander in more experiments in conjunction with probe pressure and heat. You don't have to stick with repairing windshields by the book if you happen to discover something else that gives a different result.
Keep at it.
Sneck
Re: Practice -- Bad Results
It looks to me like you didn't use enough drops of resin to start with? A fresh break like this one should fill with very little trouble. Also I agree that more vacume would help too. Keep practicing and don't quit.
"I still love this business"
"I still love this business"
Re: Practice -- Bad Results
Everyone, thanks so much for the feedback.
I will try more continous vacuum cycle. I tend to be more conscious of the pressure cycle and am probably not paying enough attention to the vacuum cycle.
I may be "cheating" a little on the amount of resin too. I went through a bottle really quickly and have been cutting back on my second bottle a lot (Delta Premium Bond). I really haven't counted the drops but it may only be 3-5 drops so I will double check that one on my next problem repair. It seems like a lot of the resin drips down the seal so I figured I was using too much.
I also will give heat a try and see if that improves it next time.
Thanks again for the comments. Your guidance is really appreciated!
I will try more continous vacuum cycle. I tend to be more conscious of the pressure cycle and am probably not paying enough attention to the vacuum cycle.
I may be "cheating" a little on the amount of resin too. I went through a bottle really quickly and have been cutting back on my second bottle a lot (Delta Premium Bond). I really haven't counted the drops but it may only be 3-5 drops so I will double check that one on my next problem repair. It seems like a lot of the resin drips down the seal so I figured I was using too much.
I also will give heat a try and see if that improves it next time.
Thanks again for the comments. Your guidance is really appreciated!
Re: Practice -- Bad Results
I think the resin dripping down through the seal onto the glass during the repair is too much pressure, not too much resin. At the training I just attended, Delta Kits (Matt) recomended that you push the piston down only about half way. The only times mine leaked is when I pushed it down further. Now, I've done a total of about 10 repairs so far, so others may have some extra info, but I did learn that one thing 
JAC

JAC
Re: Practice -- Bad Results
Tyler,
How'd you get the pic. to turn out so good ? Did you use a reg./ digital camera?
I've tried before, and my camera won't focus on the chip. It focuses on the inside of the car. Can you tell us? This would dramatically help this forum.
BOYD
How'd you get the pic. to turn out so good ? Did you use a reg./ digital camera?
I've tried before, and my camera won't focus on the chip. It focuses on the inside of the car. Can you tell us? This would dramatically help this forum.
BOYD
Re: Practice -- Bad Results
Boyd,
I used a digital camera (Fuji F-10) in "flower" mode. This is the macro (close-up) mode. Most cameras have this mode I *think*.
When you are about to take the picture make sure the damage is centered and hold the picture taking button (shutter) half way down until your camera focuses. It should grab the closest item you have pointed it at and blurred out the background. If so, complete the picture. If not try again, farther away.
If you still can't get a good shot, it probably has to do with the lighting. Most point and shoot digital cameras go up to 400ISO. The F-11 goes up to 1600ISO which means it needs less light to take a picture.
I then zoomed and cropped the picture in Photoshop Elements 4.0.
I hope this helps!
Tyler
I used a digital camera (Fuji F-10) in "flower" mode. This is the macro (close-up) mode. Most cameras have this mode I *think*.
When you are about to take the picture make sure the damage is centered and hold the picture taking button (shutter) half way down until your camera focuses. It should grab the closest item you have pointed it at and blurred out the background. If so, complete the picture. If not try again, farther away.
If you still can't get a good shot, it probably has to do with the lighting. Most point and shoot digital cameras go up to 400ISO. The F-11 goes up to 1600ISO which means it needs less light to take a picture.
I then zoomed and cropped the picture in Photoshop Elements 4.0.
I hope this helps!
Tyler
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 59 guests