I WAS READING THROUGH AND TJE TERMANOLOGY CAUGHT MY EYE
WHEN I COMES TO STOPPING A CRACK. I WAS TOLD THAT DRILLING DOWN
AT THE END OF A CRACK WAS A VERY GOOD METHOD TO STOP A CRACK
. BUT WHEN I READ SOME OF THE SENIOR WRITERS SAY POP A BULLSEYE
AT THE END OF A CRACK IM CURIOUS AS TO HOW YOU DO THAT AND
HOW RELIABLE IS THIS TECHNIQUE? IS THERE MUCH RISK TO "POPING AND BULLSEYE".
THANKS FOR THE INPUT. IF YOU WOULD GIVE A DESCRIPTION OF HOW TO PERFORM THIS METHOD , I WOULD APPRECIATE IT . THANK YOU
Drill halfway through the outer layer, insert a probe (some use a sewing machine needle) and tap the top of the probe slightly with a tappet or similar object (I use a second probe to tap with). Distance to drill the hole from the end of the crack is a subject of debate. I usually drill about an eighth of an inch past the end.
Thank You Mafsu,
When You Tap The Probe That Is In The Drill Hole , Does It Actually Make A Bullseye?? You Then Crack The Original Crack Into The Popped Bullseye Right? And Inject Into Both Ends Along With The Crack??
I use liquid resins magnetic probe #461. It has a constant dia tip, as in its NOT tapered. It fits nicely into a drill hole. I then use my delta probe to tape it. Remember the depth of the hole you drill will determine the dia of the bulls, and the amount if energy you have to use to make it. Plactice on an old car at a wreckers or a lot thats sending it out for scrap. very the depth of the drill hole and you should see different results. You can also use a center punch to make stars. Practice poping bulls at the end of the legs. Drilling to close can cause the crack to jump past the bull you make (defeats the purpose). Drilling to far away might not catch the crack. If you do that practice flexing the glass to get the crack to run into your bulls.
I WAS READING THROUGH AND TJE TERMANOLOGY CAUGHT MY EYE