Drilling ?

[L.R.]

To All,
For Those Of You That Say They Never Drill
Does It Have More To Do With Equipment Used, Experience, Or Just The Way You Where Taught.
The Reason I Ask Is Because Some Claim That Drilling Is A Last
Resort If Nothing Else Works. If So What If You Had Drilled
In The First Place. You Wouldnt Have Wasted That Time With The Other Procedures. I Was Taught To Drill But I Agree It Does Take A Cosiderable Amount Of Time And If Its Not That Necessary To Begin With Drilling Like I Was Taught I Wouldnt. Please Clue Me In On Your Thoughts And Experiences.
Im Open To Any Suggestions.
Also, How Many Times To Find Yourself Having To Go Back And Drill?

[Sneck]

LR,

For me, I started out in this business drilling everything. Later, I found out that most of the damage did not require drilling.

After you have been doing this a while, you will come to recognize the type of damage that will require drilling, and the type of damage that won't require drilling.

Example, if you have a chip with no pulverized glass at the very impact point, chances are you are going to have to drill because the damage itself did not provide you with a path to the body of the damage.

However, if you have a chip with a fairly good sized pulverized impact point, you can bet that drilling is not required because the damage is much more extensive.

There are not hard and fast rules here. There are variations to everything. But you will definately get a feel for what is required drilling and what is not.

Best of luck!

[StarQuest]

I only drill to clean out loose glass in pit area. Once in a while you'll run into damage that requires deeper drilling but not to often. If you ever hit the lami while drilling...you basically screwed up!!! You'll leave a blemish that can't be fixed.

[k9mkt]

I always drill (just a little, 1/4 of the depth of the drill bit) and have being doing so since i started out doing WSR 2 yrs ago. Takes less than 45seconds to drill the impact point and by doing so, i'm actually clearing the impact point and making a neat 'passage' for the resin to flow into the damaged area.

I've also 'tried' repairing without drilling. The repair turned out ok but to my calculations, it took me about 8-10 mins longer than I would normally take. Basically its individual preference to drill or not to drill.

Also when you drill, you'll have to spend about 1min at the end of the repair process to fill the pit and making sure there's no air bubble when you fill the pit with your pit filler resin. This is achieved by using a needle to probe the air out which i do on all of my pit filling process. Repairs have been good and Aesthetics appearance not much different.

[johnnyone]

I agree with Sneck and Star

[daris]

In my experience, I found that the bigger the impact point, the bigger the blemish looks when finished. If it's just a knick, I put a tiny needle in the center and tap it to create a tiny bulls eye, and that secures the break from spreading yet doesn't create unnecessary marks.

After all you are drilling so you have stable grounds to pop a bulls eye, why drill if a knick, or half star has already created stable grounds to pop it in.
But I guess we all do what we feel comfortable with, and sometimes if your used to doing things one way and are happy with your results, Why change?

[L.R.]

Daris,
When You Pop A Bullseye In The Break Does It Ever Make
The Og Break Worse, Or Is It Just To Clear A Passage For The Injecting. Also The Needle Your Refering To , Is It A Small Sewing Needle. I Understand That Everybody Has There Own Preference
For Repairing, But I Appreciate Yours, And Everybodys Input
More Input The Better. Thanks

[pbaker]

I never drill unless there is a run off crack that looks like it may run off. I just drill and tap. but so far i have not ever repaired a repair that was so tight resin couldnt get through. Sure it may take 5 more min. but to me its worth it, but its just personal choice. I find that to get around drilling the tight chips, you just have to keep your bridge as loose as you can and "massage" the inside of the chip--giving a little pressure and useing a little heat. for me it works everytime.

[daris]

L.R.
You can buy a set of sewing needles, 15 to 30 of them for a few bucks.I tend to use the thinner ones but they're all good. Everytime a stone hits a windshield the break becomes open to the surface at any depth, unless It's a knick or at times a tight star or half star, which I consider a knick. At which time I take my needle and stable it and tap it lightly, and if you don't make a bulls eye you tap it a little harder and on until you do that way you'll feel safe. Usually they are so tiny, about 3to6mm in length, yet they create an opening to the surface, and fill so good. Try practising a few to assure yourself. That's how I've been taught. But if your comfortable with your way, and looks good that's important.

[L.R.]

Daris,
Thank You For Your Detailed Example, I Would Of Never Thought
That Something So Small Like A Sewing Needle Could Pop A Bullseye.
Does The Size Of The Bullseye That Is Popped In Depend On The Force In Which You Hit The Needle? And Does The Popped Bullseye Show In The Cosmetic Side Of The Finished Result?
How Often Would You Say You Have To Pop A Bullseye?