When the drill bit leaves a signature on the glass

[Mr Bill]

What can you do if the drill bit leaves a small signature on the glass as a result of skipping?
( apart from BEING MORE CAREFUL )
Is there a way to get rid of it or make it less visible?

[harrellbenjamin]

I have some jewelers/glass rouge I got from the local plate glass commercial installer and mix a paste then buff with soft dremel cloth pad attachment.I also have a glass polish pad I think came from a GlassMedic kit thats about 1" around that works pretty good with the paste.Yea I have done it too!!

[Mr Bill]

Do you use the Mini Dremel or a full size dremel for buffing?
I haven't seen any buffing pads which would fit the Mini Dremel which came with my kit ( DK )
Most of the tool attachments I have seen in stores have a 1/8 inch diameter shank.
Ideas?

[Mr Bill]

I bought another dremel type tool with a bigger collet. Now I have two. One for drilling; one for polishing if needed.
I dont want to have to change collets for different tasks.
Case closed!

[harrellbenjamin]

Just got home and you beat me to the answer.You will like the set up you now have.Just a note .On some tricky starter holes I will start the hole by twisting the drill collet by hand between thumb and index finger with slight pressure on bit until it cuts a slight starter hole then hold tightly with both hands start on low rpm untill I get a good hole started then increase rpm.I have the Dremel with the nicad and adjustable rpm wheel.Works awsome.Worth the money and I also set up my mini for buff only.The nicad seems to last forever compared to the minis battery.

[Bruno]

When it happened to me i filled it with pit resin, worked great.

[Glasseye]

Find the best way to avoid drill skip is to start the process by holding the drill at an angle of 45 degrees to the glass surface then, holding the Dremel firmly with both hands, drill a dimple into the glass. This prevents skipping when you start to drill.

[Jerry Martin]

I perfer to use the rounded burr bits. Never a problem. No skipping and I use the size of the burr ball head to measure how deep to drill.
That is when the ball is nearly even with the glass (side view) I have drilled deep enough.

[screenman]

I will add to this by saying, make sure both hands hold the drill and one of them is in contact with the glass for support. I would not attempt to polish out a drill mark they are usualy to deep and to remove a scratch means removing more glass leaving distortion.
I would wipe some normal resin into the mark and then pit fill as usual, not perfect but works most times.

[rescue]

My kit came with a 12 volt plug-in drill but I found that the speed was way too high for drilling (it would just eat up my burs). So I bought a 12 volt battery Dremel for drilling (has a low and high speed setting - I use low for drilling). I use the high-speed plug-in Dremel for polishing.

For the 12 volt battery drill the collet was too big, but I found a set of collets at Home Depot:

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN ... =100034343

I scratched a windshield once why drying a long crack with my DryStar (didn't notice it was scratching the glass as I moved it along). But my polishing wheel on the high-speed plug-in drill got it out (whew!).