Bullseye with large pit

[CrackMagic]

What are the options when the pit is larger than the injector O-ring opening thus causing bad seal. I do not believe there is any adapter for my injector (which cannot be named here) and my thoughts are leaning towards filling the surface pit first then cure and drill new opening through resin into bullseye. I worry that I might clog a portion of bullseye and it won't be able to fill completly by doing this. Is this the right approach?

[GlassStarz]

On occasion I have put a old drill bit through a cure tab put the tip into the break pulled up the corner and filled the thing with pit filler cure well it pull off the tab pull out the bit and drill a quick burst to open the break place the injector on it and hope for a clean fill
fingers and toes crossed dance a native american dance while holding your finger in the sky

[screenman]

If you think about the shape of a bullseye, hopefully you were shown a cross section drawing in training, you will realise that the centre of the damage is actually not where you want to drll as it will not help matters when it comes to filling. If it is a combination or most other style breaks then yes you can pit fill and drill, this is our preferred method after making sure the customer understands the comsmetics will not be 100%. For a bullseye to have that much glass missing is unusual, if it did I would pit fill, drill and pop to the deepest part of the damage, which of course is that furthest from the centre. __//\!\___ . I hope my simple diagram helps people understand what a bullseye looks like if anyone can do better I would appreciate it.

[Brent Deines]

We have experimented quite a lot with large pit adapters over the years but have found them to be largely ineffective, mainly because they require much more pressure due to the increased surface area. I have tried large pit adapters on many different windshield repair systems, but not all windshield repair systems.

If you are concerned about your pit filler creeping into the break, use a super high viscosity resin. I have not had any problems with capping and drilling repairs using Delta Kits pit resin (2200 cps), but Delta Kits plate glass resin (3600 cps) for this purpose would all but guarantee the resin would not flow into the break even in the hottest weather. I would think most other reputable windshield repair suppliers have a resin with a similar viscosity.

I think SGT has mentioned that he uses plate glass resin for pit filling all of his repairs, especially in hot weather.

If you drill through the resin cap with a very small bur the repair will still be very acceptable cosmetically, although in my opinion not quite as good as a repair that is not drilled. I'm not sure why, but we often end up with large pits in training classes, and sometimes the fact that the finished repair is slightly more visible than a small pit repair concerns trainees, not because of the drill hole, but because of the larger amount of glass that was replaced in the pit area.

[SGT]

Brent,

That is correct, I do use it in my four season climate and have exceptional results all year round. I do not store my resin upside down to avoid air bubbles either. I find that with the plate glass resin I have less airation and less waste in the heat due to the thicker viscosity. I could not help myself Brent so here are the specs for everyone to compare along with my daily field results.


144-6 Windshield Repair Resin Specifications
144-6 is a high viscosity plate glass repair adhesive.
Viscosity: 3600 CPS
Refractive Index (Uncured adhesive): 1.5064
Film Tensile Strength: 5200 PSI
Adhesive tensile on Glass: 2500 PSI
Shore Hardness: D75


144-2 Windshield Repair Resin Specifications
144-2 is a medium viscosity windshield repair adhesive used for pit filling.
Viscosity: 1600-2200 CPS
Refractive Index (Uncured adhesive): 1.51
Film Tensile Strength: 4200 PSI
Adhesive tensile on Glass: 3200 PSI
Shore Hardness: D75