New resin
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New resin
Just wanted to get some thoughts on the new waterproof repair resin. It's being advertised as NOT contaminated by water or moisture and will not lose clarity or adhesion when water or moisture is present in the break.
My first thought was how long has this resin been used in "real life" situations like freezing and thawing? Also, if moisture is evaporated prior to repair, why would this new resin be necessary?
My first thought was how long has this resin been used in "real life" situations like freezing and thawing? Also, if moisture is evaporated prior to repair, why would this new resin be necessary?
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Re: New resin
It's advertised in this months AGRR magazine on page 46 and also a small intro on pages 66-67. The company name can't be mentioned on this forum. I could simply call that manufacturer for info, but wanted any thoughts from this forum first!
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Re: New resin
Be interesting to see if they are willing to send a sample over, I doubt it. So you force the water to the end of the leg with the resin, you then cure the resin and you have a sealed vessel full of water. That water then warms up maybe and tries to turn into something 1700 times the size it is at the moment, hey presto leg runs. I have my reservations about this but will have to ask them to send me some. I will keep you all posted.
33,000 + screen repairs over 18 years and still learning.
Over
Over
Re: New resin
I wonder if it somehow absorbs the moisture kinda like when you used to dab some isopropyl in a break to mix with the moisture and make it dry out faster with heat.I have never used this method but have heard of the procedure.Hmmmmm.
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Re: New resin
I for one would be very interested ..and probably everyone in the uk would be too
Quote:
This new windshield repair resin for stone-breaks retains its bond as water and moisture are displaced with your normal windshield repair tool. The water is displaced the same way air is displaced, by vacuum and pressure however unlike the present windshield repair resins it is not contaminated by water and the refractive index remains the same. As the water passes through the resin is has no affect on the resins bond or refractive index. Even if your windshield repair tool has little to no vacuum and leaves water in the break it will not affect the bond or refractive index. Exposure tests both visually and structurally were unaffected with a mixture of water and resin
Is delta going to come up with a similar product Brent


Quote:
This new windshield repair resin for stone-breaks retains its bond as water and moisture are displaced with your normal windshield repair tool. The water is displaced the same way air is displaced, by vacuum and pressure however unlike the present windshield repair resins it is not contaminated by water and the refractive index remains the same. As the water passes through the resin is has no affect on the resins bond or refractive index. Even if your windshield repair tool has little to no vacuum and leaves water in the break it will not affect the bond or refractive index. Exposure tests both visually and structurally were unaffected with a mixture of water and resin
Is delta going to come up with a similar product Brent

- Brent Deines
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Re: New resin
Revive,
I'm afraid I am a little skeptical about the claims of a liquid being "waterproof". I've been trying to think of any liquid that is truely water proof, and I'm drawing a blank. There are liquids that displace water, and don't mix well with water, but waterproof is another story. Some say oil and water do not mix, but if you get water in your automobile oil, or shake up a jar of water and oil both are contaminated. Frankly I haven't put all that much thought into it as I don't think leaving water in the break is an option even if the waterproof claims are true. I think it is important to consider that if water is compressed to the edge of...lets say a bullseye, it could eventually be absorbed by the PVB laminate which would leave an air space around the edge of the break and could possibly compromise the integrity of the PVB. In the case of a star break the water would be compressed to the end of the crack, thereby compromising the bond at the point where it is most critical.
I also don't see how any vacuum system is going to differentiate between water and resin (both liquids), so if resin is introduced into the break when any water remains I don't see how it would be possible to vacuum out the water without also removing resin. This leads us back to the necessity for removing the water prior to injecting the resin, which is not a difficult task these days.
I just don't see the benefit of a "waterproof" resin so I have not even run this past any chemists yet, but should it prove to be a legitimate product that has a significant benefit to windshield repair technicians I don't see why we could not produce a similar product. I'll be very interested to hear the results that some of you get from field testing, and how exactly you are able to determine if it does what the manufacturer claims inside the break. Once cured, how are you going to test the water content inside the break, or in the PVB? As long as it looks good when you are finished, how are you going to know if water mixed with the resin or not? Yes moisture often causes a whitish appearance, but does it always? What is it going to look like a year, or five years from now? IMHO it will always best to dry out the break prior to repairing I think.
I'm afraid I am a little skeptical about the claims of a liquid being "waterproof". I've been trying to think of any liquid that is truely water proof, and I'm drawing a blank. There are liquids that displace water, and don't mix well with water, but waterproof is another story. Some say oil and water do not mix, but if you get water in your automobile oil, or shake up a jar of water and oil both are contaminated. Frankly I haven't put all that much thought into it as I don't think leaving water in the break is an option even if the waterproof claims are true. I think it is important to consider that if water is compressed to the edge of...lets say a bullseye, it could eventually be absorbed by the PVB laminate which would leave an air space around the edge of the break and could possibly compromise the integrity of the PVB. In the case of a star break the water would be compressed to the end of the crack, thereby compromising the bond at the point where it is most critical.
I also don't see how any vacuum system is going to differentiate between water and resin (both liquids), so if resin is introduced into the break when any water remains I don't see how it would be possible to vacuum out the water without also removing resin. This leads us back to the necessity for removing the water prior to injecting the resin, which is not a difficult task these days.
I just don't see the benefit of a "waterproof" resin so I have not even run this past any chemists yet, but should it prove to be a legitimate product that has a significant benefit to windshield repair technicians I don't see why we could not produce a similar product. I'll be very interested to hear the results that some of you get from field testing, and how exactly you are able to determine if it does what the manufacturer claims inside the break. Once cured, how are you going to test the water content inside the break, or in the PVB? As long as it looks good when you are finished, how are you going to know if water mixed with the resin or not? Yes moisture often causes a whitish appearance, but does it always? What is it going to look like a year, or five years from now? IMHO it will always best to dry out the break prior to repairing I think.
Brent Deines
Delta Kits, Inc.

Delta Kits, Inc.

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Re: New resin
Thanks Brent for a very comprehensive reply...seems like I will have to keep my trusty Gas flame blower going for some time to come ...snow forcast this weekend ..the joys 

Re: New resin
Snow there this weekend also huh??? They are forecasting Snow Showers Sunday Night and Monday here in Michigan. With Rain starting tomorrow and Sat. Looks like I will be without money this weekend... LOL
Re: New resin
Well if this Resin you're talking about is not a scam (could someone send me a link in the PM) , to be waterpoof could mean it contains silane, like in the silane coupling agents.
Scientific Explanation follows:
Silane has the general form R-Si(Y)3
Y being commonly -OCH3 methoxy or
-OC2H5 ethoxy
and R is a reactive organic group. (amine containing R groups are usually chosen for epoxy/resins)
The Y groups hydrolyse with water to form reactive Silanol R-Si(OH)3 groups which can then react with themselves and the surfaces to which they adhere. the R-group can be chosen to react with a polymer or resin which is subsequently applied to the surface.
Example silane coupling agent is aminopropyltrimethoxysilane H2N-CH2-CH2-CH2-Si(OCH3)3 , used to promote glass-resin adhesion.
Silane, applied in dilute solution, reacts with water, on the glass surface and in the air to form silantrids by eliminating the hydrolysable groups:
R-Si(OC2H5)3 + 3H20 (water) --------> R-Si(OH)3 + 3C2H5OH (ethanol which evaporates)
Maybe they found a way to mix a coupling agent like silane with the resin directly..... or something along those lines.
Scientific Explanation follows:
Silane has the general form R-Si(Y)3
Y being commonly -OCH3 methoxy or
-OC2H5 ethoxy
and R is a reactive organic group. (amine containing R groups are usually chosen for epoxy/resins)
The Y groups hydrolyse with water to form reactive Silanol R-Si(OH)3 groups which can then react with themselves and the surfaces to which they adhere. the R-group can be chosen to react with a polymer or resin which is subsequently applied to the surface.
Example silane coupling agent is aminopropyltrimethoxysilane H2N-CH2-CH2-CH2-Si(OCH3)3 , used to promote glass-resin adhesion.
Silane, applied in dilute solution, reacts with water, on the glass surface and in the air to form silantrids by eliminating the hydrolysable groups:
R-Si(OC2H5)3 + 3H20 (water) --------> R-Si(OH)3 + 3C2H5OH (ethanol which evaporates)
Maybe they found a way to mix a coupling agent like silane with the resin directly..... or something along those lines.
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