Should All Breaks Be Made into Bullseye .. ? !

[beepeep]

Hi
I saw in the youtube one repair man said that all kinds of stome chips ( stars , combination ,..ect ) should be transfer to
Bullseys to limit the lines going out from the star
so is that the right way to do it or u have other idea ??? !!
links below
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ls8W0xGR5I

beepeep

[Brent Deines]

With all due respect to Heath, I don't agree with this at all. Many star breaks are almost invisible when filled properly and I've rarely found the need to create more damage in order to get them to fill. I will be very interested to see what everyone else thinks about this as I was not aware it was a common practice.

[Nomad]

I watched this a while ago, wonder how many of those crack lines jump an inch or two when he smacks them. Sometimes I break a mini bull in a very tight break, but not clear out to the ends like that. He can't be drilling very deep either to get a bull that large. I have no trouble with getting the resin to the ends of the crack lines and this bonds everything together in any case. As Brent said, they are almost invisible when you do that and I haven't had anyone complain about a crackout.

[Mr Bill]

This guy obviously drills and pops everything.
This is a shotgun approach.
Better to try to fill the break and legs without drilling and then only drill and pop if it does not fill.
A nearly invisible repair looks very professional.
Drill and pop equals nore visible.

[GLASSTIME]

You only want to drill only and I mean only if you had to! Commonly drilling is required to create a ending to a long crack and then you would use a slide hammer to pop a mini bullseye. Thus creating a stopping point. Having to drill each and every break is absurd!

Of course that is his method and a personal preference at that on his behalf. Watch what you Watch! & Be careful what you read. Some information is correct or within standards and most is not. I personally don't agree with this method as being in field and filling breaks everyday I rarely have to use my drill.

By using the drill you are creating a larger blemish and the ending result is that of a slighter visible one.

You are on the right track as i notice you are diving into informational videos. And you done the right thing by posting your questions from watching the video here to get direct answers from those you fill have the knowledge to give you, Don't give up!!!


Short story.... I used to work for a company. After being there for some time there were rumors he was selling out to a competitior. This would have ended my current employment with this company if this had taken place. Oh gosh so this is how this guy cares about his employees. These were the topics of the days following until he had a meeting with his staff to inform them of this..."If you didn't hear it come from me, It isn't true"

Well we were relieved to say the least. I kinda view the relationship with delta the same way. I beleive in what these guys are doing and If I don't hear come from them than I don't believe it!

Food For Thought!

[GlassStarz]

Guy drill and pops everything needs to find a new job doing more damage doesnt make a better repair. Sometimes you need to drill to get to the damage but seldom. I dont drill one in 30 you would be wise to find somewhere else to learn repairs from sounds like you found Bozo

[screenman]

I do not drill often, however I do use my drill as a powered scribe. I find this more accurate and more effective, of course this comes with practise. Any decision to drill or not in my opinion should come before you start filling not halfway through, drill burs and resin do not work well together, also unless you are extremely careful in keeping the damage covered whilst drilling you are allowing some UV in to start the curing process, a few seconds is enough sometimes.

[beepeep]

Thanks all for the advice and your replays
one more ...can I keep doing the 5 mint.pressure and 30 sec vacuum till it be clear ?

[GLASSTIME]

I would highly recommend you watching the videos Delta has displayed on their site. They are very informational. Typically you only have to do 3 pressure cycles and two vac cycles. This is whats suggested by Delta. I have however done an extra pressure before. It wont hurt anything if you do.

Not sure what you mean by until its clear unless your talking about the void filling in full!

[stihlcarven]

I drill some, if I look at a damage and it has legs popping off in several directions, such as a star break, I drill to ensure that all the legs are connecting well and that there is open pathway to the entire damage. Plus it seems to cut down on the legs traveling when even a small amount of pressure is applied. This seems to occur especially when the windshield is hotter. My goal is to evacuate every bit of air and replace it with resin. A tiny dot added to the center of the damage doesn't add much to it in my opinion. It isn't great when you decide to not drill then you find that regardless of how many times you go through the cycles there is a leg that isn't filling...drilling and tapping is a good way to ensure the total damaged area is open enough to accept resin well. A break that is opened up and connected and easily filled is better than having to put pressure on a leg or two with your scribe while your injector is pressured on it. I also like to use my dremmel like a power scribe to clear away loose debri in the break that can clog a leg.Be carefull with this since it is easy to break a chip out of the surface of the windshield making it larger than your injector seal.