Star Breaks

[Hoosier]

I just recieved my kit about 1 1/2 weeks ago. I am practicing different chips. I can doo the bullseyes OK but I can not get the Star Breaks to fill all the way in. Any Help on this would be great.

Thank You

[GlassStarz]

Myself I drill if needed to insure a clear path to the break clean up loose stuff the best I can. Put the injector on the break and apply your presure (I try to do stars inside because even with a shield sometimes the reflective uv gets to the resin before it has worked its way into all the legs) The stars take awhile usualy and sometime you have to flex a leg to get the resin flowing into it.(I use a metal awl) while this is all going on I alternate from pressure to suction a couple times and sometimes if one isnt going the way I want I might use a match or lighter on the inside of the glass while using suction mode. The biggest mistake I see when looking at stars is the tech doesnt take long enough and often when it looks complete they stop before its really done. My son is a pretty compitant tech but like all 15 yr olds wants to do everything quickly(coits wife says hes like that ) slow down take your time but even when you do everything right stars are like some northern Vermont women just plain ugly and nothin seems to help. Beer goggles shouldnt be worn at work 8)

[Pat]

Hoosier
Welcome to form .I will be glad to help you if you need help on the Star break. There is a lot of good information on this form about it. Just type in repairing star breaks and most of the information you will need will be there. I am very slow on my typing. If I can help you, I will be glad to talk you through it .If you go to the chat Room on yahoo put me in your friends

[Hoosier]

Thanks for the info. I will try it. Everything sounds so easy but when your doing it. It seems not that easy. Might have to go to the training.


Thanks

[desertstars]

The training is definitely the way to go, Hoosier.

Most definitely.

Thin star breaks (sans black) almost always need flexing and/or heat application to some degree but patience is always important.

Given time, the resin itself can absorb air in the break.

But there are so many different types of star and combo breaks that it is damned near impossible to set up any hard and fast rules beyond a basic approach.

I can suggest that when heating do NOT use a butane torch. Use a match in a circular motion from the inside on a slight suction cycle and cool the w/s with a 50/50 solution of alcohol and water before proceeding. You'll burn your finger before you will crack the windshield or damage the laminate.

Flex from the inside or outside on the pressure cycle, of course.

And, ALWAYS keep that work UV shielded and ALWAYS cure under pressure.

This is simplified and I may get some arguments concerning those suggestions, but that is what this forum is all about and the last thing I can be accused of is residing underneath a thin skin.

[maxryde]

desertstars, Definately Train with delta or a qualified repair professional. You'll be glad you did!! I too use different methods for star breaks see flexing the pit for some good tips on legs that just don't like to fill. I also use heat on the tough ones I heat under vacuum slowly untill the leg looks like it has nearly closed from contaction and then I'll allow it to cool naturally under pressure and that usually does the trick. Don't do this on real long legs I found it's better to drill if the leg runs out to far or if the damage grows while flexing or heating. Best of luck Scott

[DaveC]

Hoosier,

Another thing ... make sure you haven't torqued down your injector too tightly. Too much contact pressure can restrict resin flow.

[CPR]

Too much stem pressure was the problem when I first started, also using a spring loaded center punch made some really tough stars to work on. The heat and pressure tricks are allmost allways needed to fill those stubborn legs.

[screenman]

One thing to remember when doing starbreaks or any damage with legs is to check if the crack is open to the surface one way to do this is to press on the legs if they open up or look larger then they are behind the surface it they close up the are usualy cracked to the surface. you can check the last ones by pressing from inside the car and you will see them open up these are the hardest to fill from the injector as they will sometimes not connect in the middle. However a very easy way to treat these is by running some resin along them place curing film over them and get in the car and flex them and watch the disappear. I hope this is clear if not let me know.

[desertstars]

screenman.

An easy way to check if the crack reaches the surface is to drag your probe across it. You'll hear a click if it does.

I use the same technique on the inside of the w/s when I see one of those odd looking dings we encounter very seldom but turn up occasionally where the damage extended through both layers of glass.