Combination star and bullseye with surface chip

[magicogar]

Hello everybody

Sorry if this is a double post but I've searched and couldn't find anything.

I've created a nasty combination star and bullseye break with a surface chip on my practice glass. The chip was bigger than the injector seal so I used the pit resin to cure and smooth it out first. Then I drilled a hole and proceed with my usual repair. No matter what I've tried, I could not get the bullseye or the star legs to fill completely. Then I sat down for a moment and wondered why it wasn't filling. My guess is when I put the pit resin on there at the beginning, it may have sealed off some of the cracks and not allowing the resin to flow. Is this true guys? What is your best way of repairing this triple combination?

[maxryde]

Sounds like you have sealed the legs of the star break, you can drill each or try to open them by directional drilling thru the curred pit to each leg or unfilled area Use caution not to break your drill, proceed slowly at first in each direction. Any way it goes you'll get some good practice on a large pit break and drilling etc......... Let us know how you proceed and the results too. Scott :~)

[magicogar]

I wish I got a better camera to take some pics. This crack is really nasty. It has about 5 star legs and about a dozen tiny legs. If i have to drill, it'll be all around in order to reach all the legs and probably create a pit that'll be too large for the injector seal to cover the pit.

I just realized the pit resin costs alot more than the crack resin.

This is getting to be an expensive hobby.

[GlassStarz]

sounds like you used the british method of creating you practice break

for those of you that dont know what im talking about a few years ago the british govt asked the USA to borrow the catapault they use to chuck chickens at airplanes to test the design against bird hits(more jets come down from hitting birds during take of and landing that any other reason) it seems the brit s wanted to test the design of thier super train should it hit the odd seagull at 200+ mph well we loaned it to them they chucked thier first bird and it went through the windshield through the drivers seat and left a huge dent in the wall behind what used to be the conductors seat hmm they said must of done something wrong and tried again with the same results. In a panic they called the US govt who sent a team of experts to see the problem thier answer THAW THE CHICKEN!!!!!!!!! ( True story by the way)
Moral of the story for practice you created to big a break Thaw the Chicken and try again

[CPR]

It must be spring fever or something going on around here, flying frozen chickens ??? Is the sky falling ??? Ahhhh, must be the full moon...........

[gold star wsr]

It is important to use the thickest pit filler available when attempting such a repair, so that as little as possible will be absorbed. Some pit fillers are too thin to use for this purpose. Once the pit resin is cured and scraped, drill into it and then pop a mini-bullseye. I usually pop straight down, then if I think it might be necessary, I also pop again at several slight angles. I also use this technique to reopen the channels if I am doing reworks. However, if you could see that resin had indeed flowed into the legs, but not to the ends, the problem was probably not that the channels were blocked by pit filler, but rather something else was preventing the resin from reaching the ends:
1. Did you blow out the drilled hole with compressed air, to remove the ground glass prior to starting the repair??
2. Did you have enough resin in the chamber to completely fill all that needed to be filled? Bullseyes are thirsty little buggers, and require more resin than plain star chips.
3. Could you have been applying too much pressure?

I would also suggest that for repairs of this type you go to the thinest repair resin you have, in order to be sure it flows freely to all points. My resin of choice is GT's medium resin. But with repairs of this nature, I often switch to their thin resin. Typically, this allows for more 'sparkle' in the finished repair because the refractive index of the thin resin does not match that of the glass as nearly, but the integrity of the finished repair is not compromised, and that is the real goal.

[Repair1]

OMG that

[magicogar]

Thanks for the replies!!

Gold Star Wsr,
I've used compressed air to blow out the hole, make sure there's plenty of resin, and applied different pressures. I never knew you could pop a bullseye after applying the pit resin. I'll give that a try.

And thanks for the punching tip Repair1. I never thought of using the paper to lighten up the punch.

[glassdoctor]

In addition to the other tips, such as only using a very thick pit resin for this type of work, you may be able to avoid clogging to impact point...

Often, you can carefully apply the pit resin only to the perimeter of the large pit, so that the center remains untouched... yet the size of the pit is now small enough to be covered by the injector seal. Use a tab, cure and scrap, just don't fill the whole pit....

This is especially effective when dealing with a thin clamshell pieces of glass has chipped away on one sid of the impact pit.

For large and deep chunks of mising glass, this method may not work as well.

[desertstars]

I remember that about the frozen chickens, GlassStarz and it's a true story.

Look, guys.

If the damaged area extends without the area encompassed by the injector tip or even an injector adapter, other than trying to do a job for a friend or a relative, put it to rest.

No pressure; no vacuum; no repair.

Recognizing our limitations comes with experience.

Hey, that's just my two cents worth.